BWCA Canoe & Hiking Trip 2023

This year’s trip was a return to a familiar locale…

Duncan and Rose Lakes!

BWCA Route Map, Source USGS
BWCA Route Map, Source USGS (Click to Enlarge)
Video with Loons and Beavers

Complete Photo Gallery

Day 1 (Portage to Duncan Lake)

We started at Bearskin Lake and paddled across to the Duncan Lake Portage.

Starting Out
Starting Out

After exploring options on the north shore of Duncan we decided to stay on the campsite closest to the portage on the south shore (conveniently vacated by the prior group as we waited).

Duncan Lake Campsite
Duncan Lake Campsite

Overall this was a great site and not affected by blowdowns like the others we looked at. It had a nice fire area, lots of big trees, adequate tentsites, and a small pebble beach. (4/5 rating)

Hammock Housekeeping
Hammock Housekeeping

I’ve been a Hammock Camper for the past ten years. This was the first trip where I used an Underquilt and it performed very well. On the warmer nights (50s) I barely needed a sleeping bag. Going to bed felt like entering a warm bath!

After setting up camp, we had Happy Hour and veggie burgers for dinner!

Happy Hour
Happy Hour
Veggie Burgers
Veggie Burgers

The smoke haze from the Canadian Forest Fires gave us a very red sunset that night.

Smoky Sunset
Smoky Sunset

Day 2 (Canoe to Rose Lake)

The next morning we were treated to the largest gathering of Loons I’ve ever seen! We counted nine in all. It started with three or four calling and others flying in over about twenty minutes. Then they socialized and fished together for at least an hour. I called it the Loon equivalent of a breakfast club!

We read that at this time of year Loons are after fish called Cisco or lake herring. These are very oily and help the birds fatten up before they fly a thousand miles to the ocean for the winter.

Loons Gathering
Loons Gathering

We paddled down the long eastern arm of the lake to the famous “Staircase Portage” to Rose Lake.

Down the Staircase Portage
Down the Staircase Portage

We consolidated into one canoe to cruise around Rose. We saw where Ross and I camped during the The Boys 40th Birthday Trip back in 1996.

Group Photo on Rose
Group Photo on Rose

We stopped by Rose Falls to have lunch before heading up the stairs and back to Duncan.

Rose Falls
Rose Falls (Click to Enlarge)
Swimmers in Rose Falls
Swimmers in Rose Falls
Up the Staircase Portage
Up the Staircase Portage
Happy Hour Again
Happy Hour Again

Day 3 (Caribou Rock Trail, 4.3 Miles)

Group on the Trail
Group on the Trail

The next day we decided to hike on the nearby Caribou Rock Trail. This would ultimately take us to Rose Lake, but we did not go that far. Afterwards we read this is one of the “most difficult trails in Minnesota!”

Steep Climb
Steep Climb
Ross Above Duncan Lake
Ross Above Duncan Lake

That night we recovered with an elaborate taco meal prepared by Ross.

Taco Dinner
Taco Dinner

Day 4 (Rose Lake Cliffs, 6.5 Miles)

Our final full day was a mix of canoeing and hiking the Border Route Trail to the Cliffs over Rose Lake. It was difficult at times, but the view once we got there was worth it!

Rose, Rat, and South Lakes
Rose, Rat, and South Lakes

Way down on the lake we noticed two large white birds. These turned out to be a pair of [Trumpeter?] Swans! At the top I was able to take a photo through the binoculars with my phone.

Two Swans Thru Binoculars
Two Swans Thru Binoculars
Top of the World!
Top of the World!
Pileated Woodpecker Holes
Pileated Woodpecker Holes
Going for an Evening Swim!
Going for an Evening Swim!

Day 5 (Return to Civilization)

Leaving Paradise
Leaving Paradise

The next day was pretty simple. We broke camp early because the day was going to be hot (high 80s). When we later drove through Duluth the dash thermometer said it was 101!

Knots of Note

Bear Rope Hitch

Bear Rope Hitch
Bear Rope Hitch

We saw this one on a video about bear ropes. It is somewhat counter-intuitive as you get started and may require two people if the rope is heavily loaded. The first loop eliminates the need to “wrap the tree” with a long rope. The second vertical loop locks under the taught working end. As a slip knot it is extremely easy to untie so you can add one or two half-hitches for more security when needed.

Soft Shackle

Soft Shackle
Soft Shackle

These are referred to “Aussie Bowlines”. They are specifically used to secure a loaded line to a sail or other object. The cinch cords shown here already have stopper knots on their ends so it is easy to “shackle” them to the hammock strap.

Treehugger Hitch (or Tree-Hook Knot)

Treehugger Hitch
Treehugger Hitch

This is an idea I’ve been incubating for some time as a non-destructive “place anywhere” alternative to nails in trees or breaking branches to hang things on. Shown here is my first successful field test! It is tied using a short stick or similar object found locally.

  • Starting with the middle of the rope, wrap the tree at least twice and tie loosely with a reef (square) knot.
  • Catch the lower loop with the stick and add turns to partially tighten the loops.
  • Tie the upper end of the stick as tightly as possible in front of the reef knot.
  • Adjust everything to use the resulting hook to best advantage.
  • The excess rope will just hang down out of the way.

It performed well holding about ten pounds of equipment and it even let me hang up my hat! The main flaws with this implementation are the stretch in the second reef knot and the tendency for the loops to converge, allowing the hook to turn sideways. I plan to address these in the next version.

Once perfected this bit of knot-craft should help eliminate the need for nails in trees!

Old Nail in Tree
Old Nail in Tree

BWCA Canoe Trip 2022

This was a return to a familiar area with lots of options. Gaskin and Winchell are particularly nice lakes accessible from the Gunflint Trail. This area has also been burned more than once in recent times. [Full Gallery] [2019 Trip]

Click to Enlarge (source:google)
Our Group Overlooking Grand Marais

After driving most of the day we pulled up to the Bunkhouse at Rockwood Lodge on Poplar Lake. In addition to an economical place to stay we left our vehicle there while we were in the backcountry.

Short Video with Loon Calls, Snake Hunting, and Slo-Mo Waterfall!

We got a reasonably early start the next day, entering via the portage to skinny little Lizz Lake. We proceeded to portage thru Caribou and Horseshoe Lakes before snagging the primo campsite on Gaskin (located on an island with 180º views down the lake).

Gaskin Campsite View
Gaskin Campsite Landing
Gaskin Kitchen Area (Ross Cooking Veggie Burgers)

We then proceeded to take day trips all around the area lakes.

Lake Henson (Click to Enlarge)
Snake vs Toad
Large Spider in Its “Tent”
Rückenfigur on Lake Winchell
Waterfall on Winchell (Click to Enlarge)
Lake Gaskin at the End of the Day

Each evening a group of large flat rocks provided a commodious spot for our happy hour before we sat down to delicious vegetarian meals prepared by Ross. (Did I mention our food pack weighed over sixty pounds?!)

Happy Hour

Our sojourn had an unfortunate coda however. Terese slipped on rocks and twisted her ankle on the last afternoon. After resting it for twelve hours she bravely walked the four portages back to civilization using the spare paddle as a crutch. Xrays later revealed a non-displaced fracture!

Broken Ankle

We had excellent weather throughout our stay, but it got windy on the day we left and thunderstorms rolled in that night, perfect timing!

Environmental Notes: Many of the small Fir and Spruce trees on our site were either dead or dying from disease. The White Pines in the area looked very healthy. The Burned Areas appeared to be recovering slowly. The Loons remained active and we saw at least one Bald Eagle. The “Tent Spider” was something new. We saw two of them on different lakes, so probably not an anomaly.

Boundary Waters Canoe Trip 2019

This year we returned to the Gunflint Trail and entered via Poplar Lake. [Gallery] Our party of four became just Ross and I due to circumstances beyond anyone’s control. This was exacerbated by horrendous wind and cold rain on the drive up. Fortunately we had a place to stay (a family cabin) and waited an extra day for the weather to improve.

Crossing Poplar turned out to be the hardest part of the trip. We started with a cold headwind and couldn’t find the portage at first.

After that everything fell into place, the weather improved and we made good time by double-packing. We arrived on Gaskin Lake by mid-afternoon and snagged one of the best campsites located on a small island.

I found a great place to hang my hammock tent just above a short cliff.

There were several great viewpoints where we had happy hour and meals. The bugs were few and the weather mild.

The sunsets were spectacular, especially with a pair of loons to serenade us.

Our first day trip led us north to Allen Lake, which has a single campsite. It is long, thin and pretty shallow. On the western end it is surrounded by bog with many pitcher plants.

Since we were camped on a small island, we collected firewood on the way back.

And we both went swimming off a very convenient rock ledge.

Next day Ross cooked up one of his famous breakfasts.

And we headed out to Winchell Lake for the day. This is one of the best lakes in the BWCA. Its south shore is defined by the Misquah Hills, which rise up several hundred feet and even sport a few cliffs. The north shore is much lower and all the campsites are located along it. Some of the area has burned in the past few decades creating a mosaic of different forest types.

We revisited a campsite I stayed at in 2002. It looked even better! Nearby was a small waterfall draining out of the lake. It has a pool big enough to bathe in and a nice white cedar grove below.

The trip out was uneventful with lots of fall color showing along the portages.

Until next time…