Everglades Kayak Trip 2022

The plan for this year was a clockwise tour around Whitewater Bay, with options to go out to the Gulf and explore the Watson River. My cousin David Rathe and nephew Theron Pray decided to join me. [Full Gallery]

map:nps.gov (Click to Enlarge)

I drove down to Florida City (Homestead) the day before the others arrived. The three Hobie Kayaks fit nicely in the bed of my F-150 with an extender.

Three Kayaks On Board

I booked two nights at the same motel I’ve used several times in the past. The next day I picked up the boys at the Miami airport and we purchased food and other supplies for the trip.

Day 1

We drove into the park, pulled the permit, and were on the water just after 10am. The Buttonwood Canal and Coot Bay were nominal. We saw a large American Crocodile sunning on the bank within a mile of the put-in.

American Crocodile

Lower Whitewater Bay was windy at first, but the wind eased and we sailed for a few miles west to enter the Joe River.

Lower Whitewater Bay

We saw dolphins along the way and arrived at the Joe River Chickee just as the sun was setting.

Joe River Chickee

Total time on the water ~8hrs. It was an exceptionally good evening for star gazing.

Day 2

Fairly cold overnight, on the water by 9am. Very sunny with a southerly breeze. Tide was outgoing so we headed down the Little Shark River to the Gulf of Mexico.

Little Shark River & Gulf of Mexico Beyond

With a light wind behind us we rafted together and put up one sail to eat lunch and cross Ponce de Leon Bay to the beaches on the north shore.

Sailing Lunch Raft on the Gulf
Northern Beach on Ponce de Leon Bay

We explored the shore for 30min until it was obvious the tide was coming in and then headed inland on a northern channel of the Shark. We got to the Shark River Chickee about an hour before dark.

Shark River

We had a less than optimal stay due to bugs since it was hot, muggy, and calm. We all had head nets and got through it reasonably well. It rained during the night, but straight down so there was no need to batten down.

Day 3

Theron guided us through The Labyrinth with no problem and we arrived at the Watson River Chickee midday.

Watson River Chickee

Theron and David had time for some recreational sailing and exploration around the bay.

Upper Whitewater Bay Regatta
Theron in the Mangroves
Theron Swimming

The breeze kept most of the bugs away and we sat around chewing the fat until sun went down.

Watson River Chickee

Our sleeping setup was a bit eclectic on the 10×12 foot chickee platforms. I brought two lightweight cots and a 2-person tent for the boys, and a hammock for myself. Theron decided to sleep with just a net bivy bag on one of the cots (with the option to hit the tent during rain). We were all mostly comfortable.

Cots, Bivy Bag, 2p Tent, & Hammock on a Chickee!

Day 4

We headed up the Watson River to explore the next day. This was typical low mangrove and not as varied as the upper North River I explored on an earlier trip. Theron had a close encounter with a lone dolphin as we were heading back down river. We then took a back way over to the North River and sailed up to our Chickee.

View from North River Chickee

We setup and immediately went for a swim. There was just enough of a breeze to keep the bugs off and just a bit colder, which was welcome. We had a great dinner and finished off the box of red wine we brought along. In the morning we saw rosette spoonbill fly close overhead.

Happy Hour on North River!

Day 5

We knew from the weather radio that the wind would rise all day out of the west. We started north to The Cutoff to Robert’s River and then south from there. Once we hit the first bay we put up the sails and headed for the entrance to Coot Bay. The wind and waves on Whitewater Bay were increasing the entire time so it got a little hairy. At some point a wave stripped my paddle right off and I didn’t even notice! We did some downwind tacking to avoid dangerous gibes and all made it safely to Tarpon Creek and on into Coot Bay. We were off the water by 3pm. There was a Gale Warning the next day!

Windy Sail on Whitewater Bay
The Day After We Came Off the Water!

More Photos…

Everglades Kayak Trip (2021 Season)

It started out so well… then the wind and waves shut us down–again. I haven’t had a “normal” Everglades trip since 2017! [Gallery]

I decided to try December to see if conditions would be better than the usual time in January. It did not make any difference in the end. On the plus side there were no bugs!

Roseate Spoonbills at the Put-In

The first day was low-key peddling the five miles out to Jewel Key. The day started warm and calm but by the time we arrived the wind was rising and the temperature was falling fast. We found a nice little place out the wind for our kitchen and I slept out in the open under the stars.

Rick slept in a small tent which we had to tie down to keep it from blowing away. We both used small cots to keep things comfortable. We saw over a hundred White Pelicans while we were there.

The next day began sunny and cold. We decided to make an attempt to sail downwind. We didn’t get very far because, even with reefed sails, there was so much wind we could not steer the boats!

Photo does not do justice to the waves!

We originally planned to do a big loop up the Lostman’s River. But we decided to bail out at Rabbit Key after being pushed around by the following seas. The problem is you can’t really see what’s coming. When a big wave strikes you are forced off course or nearly pitched out of the boat!

What had been the main campsite was in bad shape due to recent storms and perhaps lack of maintenance (?), so we took what used to be the secondary site on the point. I’ve camped here several times over the years and it’s only gotten better with powdered-sugar sand and healthy mangroves for cover.

Fortunately for us Rick brought a box of Cabernet to fortify our bivouac. We even had time for a driftwood fire on the beach.

Rick stayed in his tent while I went back in the woods to hang my hammock.

Note the cot!
Note use of the rainfly as a windbreak!

We walked the entire shore at low tide and met the local Ospreys nesting there.

Our Collection of Trinkets

After two nights the wind calmed and we headed back to the take-out. We finally had a chance to sail and there was enough wind for Rick to flip over. He self-rescued quickly but we had to stop to pump water out of his boat. We got back to the car just as the sun was setting.

Spreading Beth’s Ashes