Apostle Islands 2021

Source:NPS

We recently went for a quick trip to Stockton Island in my friend’s new boat. Stockton has the huge advantage of partially sheltered bays with places to tie up the boat. [Full Gallery]

Campsite #19

We made an amphibious landing to offload our gear and then moored the boat about a mile away at the pier (seen in the distance above). I pitched my hammock tent right on the beach between mature white and red pines. The level of Lake Superior had recently gone down so there was a more normal amount of beach exposed.

The highlight of this trip came early, as we took a short walk away from the visitors center and came upon this magnificent orchid, the Pink Lady’s Slipper!

Pink Lady’s Slipper

“In order to survive and reproduce, Pink Lady’s Slipper interacts with a fungus in the soil. Generally, orchid seeds do not have food supplies inside them… The lady’s slipper seeds require threads of fungus to break open and attach to the seed. The fungus will pass on food and nutrients. When the lady’s slipper plant is older… the fungus will extract nutrients from its roots. This mutually beneficial relationship between the orchid and the fungus is known as “symbiosis” and is typical of almost all orchid species.

Pink lady’s slipper takes many years to go from seed to mature plants. Pink lady’s slippers can live to be twenty years old or more…”

www.fs.fed.us

“These plants require bees for pollination. Bees are lured into the flower pouch through the front slit, attracted by the flower’s bright color and sweet scent. Once inside, the bees find no reward, and discover that they are trapped, with only one point of escape. Inside the pouch, there are hairs that lead to a pair of exit openings, one beneath each pollen mass. The bee must pass under the stigma, so if it bears any pollen from a visit to another flower, it will be deposited before picking up a fresh load on the way out.”

There is a reason I’ve never seen one of these flowers before—June is bug season in the north woods. Campers avoid that month. For this trip the breeze from the lake kept the bugs at bay on the beach, but they were pretty aggressive back in the woods.

There were other plants in bloom but it was obviously the end of the season for most…

Twin Flower (Linnaea borealis)
Wintergreen
Marsh Marigold

The nearby campsites were empty so we had a pleasant evening of good food, good drink, & good company!

For our second day we moved around the corner to Quarry Bay near the site of an old brownstone quarry.

Quarry Bay (Campsite #20)

Note the bear locker in the photo above. Much easier than putting the food up in a tree!

I pitched my hammock lower and more securely because thunderstorms were predicted (and came) during the night.

We visited the quarry, which is very impressive but hard to photograph through the trees.

Etched Quarry Wall

I found another tiny orchid along the trail…

Coral Root Orchid

We also saw some critters…

Common Loon
Garter Snake

The next day started windy but it abated somewhat as we made our way back to port in Bayfield. We saw a traditional commercial fishing boat along the way.

Lake Superior Herring Tug

[More Photos…]

Kayak Trip to Hall Creek 2021

I went for a quick solo kayak trip to Hall Creek near Cedar Key (putting in at the #4 Bridge off of Highway 24. I last visited this area in 2012 with a friend.

Source:Google (Click to Enlarge)

The first mile or so is very shallow and I made a few mistakes on my way to Live Oak Key, where there is a narrow channel through the oyster beds. Surprisingly the old oak tree on the point is still alive! [compare with 2012]

Live Oak Key

The next “bay” is deeper until you approach the creek entrance. I saw lots of birds including a molting Loon and White Pelicans.

Crystal River Nuke Plant in the Distance

I hit the creek near low tide so it was hard to follow. I made several minor wrong turns.

The campsite sits on an eroded ridge of limestone that provides just enough support for several small hammocks of hardy trees. Since I last visited all the non-palm trees have died (due to hurricanes?).

Hall Creek Hammock

I saw no evidence of recent use by humans and had to break a trail through the scrub to get to the campsite, which was surprisingly nice considering much of the remaining area has been taken over by prickly pear cactus!

The View from My Hammock

There were a few noseeums in the late afternoon/morning, and a few mosquitos just after sunset. My Bug Shirt handled these with no problem. Two Rosette Spoonbills flew over just as the sun was setting.

I took several walks and saw several birds at a distance. There are small rock outcrops, tidal ponds, more hammocks, and a whole forest of dead trees as you move inland. There were surprisingly few flowers for April, but there was a lot of this ground cover I named gummy-worm plant or gummywort.

Finally there was new evidence of global warming — lots of small Red Mangrove pioneers. There were NONE in 2012 as far as I can remember. This means their range is moving north. The place would be much different if all the islands grew full mangrove ecosystems!

Red Mangrove Seedling

Everglades Kayak Trip (2021 Season)

It started out so well… then the wind and waves shut us down–again. I haven’t had a “normal” Everglades trip since 2017! [Gallery]

I decided to try December to see if conditions would be better than the usual time in January. It did not make any difference in the end. On the plus side there were no bugs!

Roseate Spoonbills at the Put-In

The first day was low-key peddling the five miles out to Jewel Key. The day started warm and calm but by the time we arrived the wind was rising and the temperature was falling fast. We found a nice little place out the wind for our kitchen and I slept out in the open under the stars.

Rick slept in a small tent which we had to tie down to keep it from blowing away. We both used small cots to keep things comfortable. We saw over a hundred White Pelicans while we were there.

The next day began sunny and cold. We decided to make an attempt to sail downwind. We didn’t get very far because, even with reefed sails, there was so much wind we could not steer the boats!

Photo does not do justice to the waves!

We originally planned to do a big loop up the Lostman’s River. But we decided to bail out at Rabbit Key after being pushed around by the following seas. The problem is you can’t really see what’s coming. When a big wave strikes you are forced off course or nearly pitched out of the boat!

What had been the main campsite was in bad shape due to recent storms and perhaps lack of maintenance (?), so we took what used to be the secondary site on the point. I’ve camped here several times over the years and it’s only gotten better with powdered-sugar sand and healthy mangroves for cover.

Fortunately for us Rick brought a box of Cabernet to fortify our bivouac. We even had time for a driftwood fire on the beach.

Rick stayed in his tent while I went back in the woods to hang my hammock.

Note the cot!
Note use of the rainfly as a windbreak!

We walked the entire shore at low tide and met the local Ospreys nesting there.

Our Collection of Trinkets

After two nights the wind calmed and we headed back to the take-out. We finally had a chance to sail and there was enough wind for Rick to flip over. He self-rescued quickly but we had to stop to pump water out of his boat. We got back to the car just as the sun was setting.

Spreading Beth’s Ashes