BWCA Canoe Trip 2024

This year we decided to base our trip out of Ely. We spent the night in the bunkhouse on Snowbank Lake. The next day we took the short drive to the official entry point #27 to head out into the wilderness. Complete Photo Gallery

Route Map 2024, Click to Enlarge
Route Map 2024 (Click to Enlarge)

The weather forecast was windy with a dash of rain in the middle. This mostly came to pass with temps dropping near freezing on the final night.

Weather Forecast
Weather Forecast

Long First Day

The first portage was the longest at 140 rods (2310 ft, 0.44 mile). There were seven portages in all on the way to Ima Lake. Several of these are very short between small connector lakes.

Portage at Jitterbug Lake
Portage at Jitterbug Lake

The smaller lakes where part of extensive wetlands with lots of fall flowers, sphagnum moss, tamarack just starting to turn yellow, and even a few spent pitcher plants.

Purple Asters Along the Portage
Purple Asters Along the Portage
Red Sphagnum and Haircap Moss
Red Sphagnum and Haircap Moss

We got to Ima in the late afternoon and proceeded to the large campsite on the north end of the major island. This is fronted by an impressive dome of rock more than 100 yards wide.

Large Island Campsite on Ima
Large Island Campsite on Ima
Our First Happy Hour
Our First Happy Hour

I pitched my tent on the windward side and it was (no surprise) very windy. So much so I decided to move before the predicted rain storm rolled in. It was warm enough to sleep with the sleeping bag loosely draped around me. That would change also.

First Hammock Site
First Hammock Site

Settling In

The next day we started out with a hot breakfast of bagels an eggs. Most of our cooking took place behind a large rock to keep the stoves out of the wind.

First Breakfast
First Breakfast

In the afternoon we had nine Spruce Grouse wander through our camp. We think it was a hen with her nearly-grown brood.

Spruce Grouse
Spruce Grouse

The second hammock site was a bit of a challenge, but a real confirmation of how flexible hammock camping can be. I was pitched over a fallen log and a large rock! It turned out to be a perfect place to weather the storm that blew in overnight! (The rain fly is folded back in this photo. The brown fabric is an inexpensive underquilt I brought to help keep out the cold.)

Second Hammock Site
Second Hammock Site
Enjoying the Morning Mists
Enjoying the Morning Mists

The rain ended and the temperature started to drop as the wind shifted to the northeast. It was not a good day to go out in the canoes so we mostly hung out, read our books, and napped. In the evening we hunkered down in a sheltered spot and had an excellent taco dinner.

Dinner in a Sheltered Spot
Dinner in a Sheltered Spot
Sunset After the Rain
Sunset After the Rain

Side Trip

On the fourth day the wind dropped off and we went on a day trip south to Alworth Lake. There is a nice campsite just off the portage in a grove of large white pines. It faces south and has a nice view through the trees.

Richard and Ross
Richard and Ross

There is also a nice, but rarely used campsite on a small island. We stopped there for a snack and took this group photo.

Group Photo on Alworth Island Campsite
Group Photo on Alworth Island Campsite

Starting Back

We decided to move camp for the last night to get some of the portaging out of the way. We retraced our path through this narrows (part of Lake Jordan) with several interesting cliffs.

Lake Jordan Narrows with Cliffs
Lake Jordan Narrows with Cliffs

Our initial goal was a campsite with a beach on Jordan, but it was occupied so we kept going. We ended up at a high, “compact” site on Lake Ahsub. It’s on the side of a rock outcrop with several unusual tree species, including this maple, cherry, and mountain ash.

Maple Seeds
Maple Seeds

For the first time on this trip the wind died down so we could have a fire. It was also clear and cold! We think it touched freezing by morning.

Gazing into the Campfire
Gazing into the Campfire
Counter-Sunset on Ahsub
Counter-Sunset on Ahsub

Complete Photo Gallery

BWCA Canoe & Hiking Trip 2023

This year’s trip was a return to a familiar locale…

Duncan and Rose Lakes!

BWCA Route Map, Source USGS
BWCA Route Map, Source USGS (Click to Enlarge)
Video with Loons and Beavers

Complete Photo Gallery

Day 1 (Portage to Duncan Lake)

We started at Bearskin Lake and paddled across to the Duncan Lake Portage.

Starting Out
Starting Out

After exploring options on the north shore of Duncan we decided to stay on the campsite closest to the portage on the south shore (conveniently vacated by the prior group as we waited).

Duncan Lake Campsite
Duncan Lake Campsite

Overall this was a great site and not affected by blowdowns like the others we looked at. It had a nice fire area, lots of big trees, adequate tentsites, and a small pebble beach. (4/5 rating)

Hammock Housekeeping
Hammock Housekeeping

I’ve been a Hammock Camper for the past ten years. This was the first trip where I used an Underquilt and it performed very well. On the warmer nights (50s) I barely needed a sleeping bag. Going to bed felt like entering a warm bath!

After setting up camp, we had Happy Hour and veggie burgers for dinner!

Happy Hour
Happy Hour
Veggie Burgers
Veggie Burgers

The smoke haze from the Canadian Forest Fires gave us a very red sunset that night.

Smoky Sunset
Smoky Sunset

Day 2 (Canoe to Rose Lake)

The next morning we were treated to the largest gathering of Loons I’ve ever seen! We counted nine in all. It started with three or four calling and others flying in over about twenty minutes. Then they socialized and fished together for at least an hour. I called it the Loon equivalent of a breakfast club!

We read that at this time of year Loons are after fish called Cisco or lake herring. These are very oily and help the birds fatten up before they fly a thousand miles to the ocean for the winter.

Loons Gathering
Loons Gathering

We paddled down the long eastern arm of the lake to the famous “Staircase Portage” to Rose Lake.

Down the Staircase Portage
Down the Staircase Portage

We consolidated into one canoe to cruise around Rose. We saw where Ross and I camped during the The Boys 40th Birthday Trip back in 1996.

Group Photo on Rose
Group Photo on Rose

We stopped by Rose Falls to have lunch before heading up the stairs and back to Duncan.

Rose Falls
Rose Falls (Click to Enlarge)
Swimmers in Rose Falls
Swimmers in Rose Falls
Up the Staircase Portage
Up the Staircase Portage
Happy Hour Again
Happy Hour Again

Day 3 (Caribou Rock Trail, 4.3 Miles)

Group on the Trail
Group on the Trail

The next day we decided to hike on the nearby Caribou Rock Trail. This would ultimately take us to Rose Lake, but we did not go that far. Afterwards we read this is one of the “most difficult trails in Minnesota!”

Steep Climb
Steep Climb
Ross Above Duncan Lake
Ross Above Duncan Lake

That night we recovered with an elaborate taco meal prepared by Ross.

Taco Dinner
Taco Dinner

Day 4 (Rose Lake Cliffs, 6.5 Miles)

Our final full day was a mix of canoeing and hiking the Border Route Trail to the Cliffs over Rose Lake. It was difficult at times, but the view once we got there was worth it!

Rose, Rat, and South Lakes
Rose, Rat, and South Lakes

Way down on the lake we noticed two large white birds. These turned out to be a pair of [Trumpeter?] Swans! At the top I was able to take a photo through the binoculars with my phone.

Two Swans Thru Binoculars
Two Swans Thru Binoculars
Top of the World!
Top of the World!
Pileated Woodpecker Holes
Pileated Woodpecker Holes
Going for an Evening Swim!
Going for an Evening Swim!

Day 5 (Return to Civilization)

Leaving Paradise
Leaving Paradise

The next day was pretty simple. We broke camp early because the day was going to be hot (high 80s). When we later drove through Duluth the dash thermometer said it was 101!

Knots of Note

Bear Rope Hitch

Bear Rope Hitch
Bear Rope Hitch

We saw this one on a video about bear ropes. It is somewhat counter-intuitive as you get started and may require two people if the rope is heavily loaded. The first loop eliminates the need to “wrap the tree” with a long rope. The second vertical loop locks under the taught working end. As a slip knot it is extremely easy to untie so you can add one or two half-hitches for more security when needed.

Soft Shackle

Soft Shackle
Soft Shackle

These are referred to “Aussie Bowlines”. They are specifically used to secure a loaded line to a sail or other object. The cinch cords shown here already have stopper knots on their ends so it is easy to “shackle” them to the hammock strap.

Treehugger Hitch (or Tree-Hook Knot)

Treehugger Hitch
Treehugger Hitch

This is an idea I’ve been incubating for some time as a non-destructive “place anywhere” alternative to nails in trees or breaking branches to hang things on. Shown here is my first successful field test! It is tied using a short stick or similar object found locally.

  • Starting with the middle of the rope, wrap the tree at least twice and tie loosely with a reef (square) knot.
  • Catch the lower loop with the stick and add turns to partially tighten the loops.
  • Tie the upper end of the stick as tightly as possible in front of the reef knot.
  • Adjust everything to use the resulting hook to best advantage.
  • The excess rope will just hang down out of the way.

It performed well holding about ten pounds of equipment and it even let me hang up my hat! The main flaws with this implementation are the stretch in the second reef knot and the tendency for the loops to converge, allowing the hook to turn sideways. I plan to address these in the next version.

Once perfected this bit of knot-craft should help eliminate the need for nails in trees!

Old Nail in Tree
Old Nail in Tree

New Hammock 2023

History

For the height of this sort of deliciousness is to have nothing but the blanket between you and your snugness and the cold of the outer air. – Herman Melville (Moby Dick)

I became aware of Hammock Camping back in 2016. Luckily my first hammock was reasonably well designed and built. Seven years later that hammock has taken me many places and taught me a lot! Unfortunately it is showing some wear and I’ve been looking for a possible replacement.

My Original Hammock
My Original Hammock

One of the things I learned is to keep things as simple as possible. That first hammock was unusual–having a short tent pole spreader at the shoulder (vertical orange bar in photo above). This eliminated the need for tying the hammock out when no rain threatened, and eliminated two extraneous lines to trip over! The rainfly was a standard 10×10 foot diamond with the ridge on the long axis. It also served as the de facto ridge-line when hanging the hammock up. Deploying it took only two stakes and I added some shock-cord to help keep it taut.

Four Point Suspension
Four Point Suspension

I call this the “four point suspension rule” and it works! Minimal trip hazard–most nights you just hang up and jump in. Even with the fly fully deployed it is easy to enter from any quadrant. I carry a few lengths of lightweight rope to solve minor problems as they come up.

I had to search hard to find a hammock with a single aluminum spreader pole similar to the above. Most “spreader” hammocks have non-removable, self-deploying wands at both ends. This makes them harder to pack up, since you have to fold them in a very precise way. I bought one of these a few years ago and found that it made a better bugnet tent on the ground. It works when hung, but not very well. The spreaders don’t spread, they just support the netting. Newer models appear to have wands closer to the ends and that arrangement might work better. (?)

Setting Up the New Hammock

Spreader and Netting

This “TravelBird” hammock looked promising and was not very expensive. The first thing you’ll notice is the spreader pole on the outside (my original had the pole inside the netting). When empty the whole thing tends to tip over in the wind. Not so much with gear in it. (The video instructions tell you to stake it out, but there really is no need to do this.)

New Hammock
New Hammock

Here’s a closeup of the spreader in action. You can also see the standard carabiner suspension and entry zipper. Note that these are not the supplied straps, which are two feet shorter and could not span the distance between my “hammock testing” trees.

Hammock Spreader
Hammock Spreader

Note that you can enter from either side, and the netting folds away into a pocket at the foot when you don’t want it. (Nice!) The dark netting is also better for stargazing at night.

Hammock Netting Folded
Hammock Netting Folded

When you lay down in the hammock the spreader bends and keeps quite a bit of tension under your shoulders. I’m still experimenting with proper pitch for the most comfortable effect. My only major complaint–at only 100 inches it’s too short. It should be 104-106 inches IMO. I’m 6 foot 2, so if it works for me it will probably work well for anyone who is shorter.

Inside Hammock Pano
Inside Hammock Pano

Rainfly

The rainfly is a custom shape and the spreader supports it just like a modern tent. The problem is the inadequate ridge-line tension using the weak elastic tabs on the ends. I re-engineered this with some shock-cords that tighten the fly and allow it to rise above the netting for better airflow.

Weak Fly Attachment
Weak Fly Attachment

I added a six inch shock-cord loop and hook.

Better Fly Attachment
Better Fly Attachment

As you can see there is more tension on the fly. And when the hammock is loaded the fly can better maintain both height and tension.

Fly Under Tension
Fly Under Tension

The fly can be tucked on both ends to keep out blowing rain. This works very well!

Fly Tucked Under
Fly Tucked Under

I’ve found that in many situations the foot can be left lightly tied or loose. The side pull-out tabs can be tied to each other as shown below (black tabs near the ground).

Loose Footed Fly
Loose Footed Fly

If more wind is anticipated you can stake out the fly as shown below. The hammock came with thin elastic cords that I replaced with heavier shock-cords and lightweight rope. (The knots are an adjustable Taut-Line Hitch and a Zeppelin Bend to connect cord to rope.)

Hammock Knots
Hammock Knots

The final result meets the four point rule outlined above, and keeps the head and sides clear of ropes!

Staked Out Fly
Staked Out Fly

If you want to hedge your bet you can reef the fly along the ridge-line. This also makes it easy to pack up when you’re breaking camp. Note that one of the reef points was not sealed properly and caused a minor leak. I will be adding some seam sealer to address this.

Fly Reefed at Ridge-Line
Fly Reefed at Ridge-Line

Note that this is the first hammock I’ve seen where you can access and deploy part of the rain-fly from the inside!

Fly Access from within the Hammock
Fly Access from within the Hammock

There are two pockets, one at the foot and one along the right side. As always, I wish there were more pockets and larger. A “loft” near the head would also be helpful.

Hammock Pockets
Hammock Pockets

Recommendations

  • PROS
  • a good hammock overall, at a great price (~$69)
  • single external pole design, fewer ropes!
  • enter from either side
  • netting folds out of the way
  • dark netting is good for stargazing
  • CONS
  • too short (needs 4-6 inches more IMO)
  • rainfly needs better suspension (easy to fix)
  • included hanging straps are adequate, but short
  • no ridge-line, so harder to hang (minor)
  • side-zipper bag included, a stuff sack would be better
  • no instructions, videos are not that helpful