This year we decided to base our trip out of Ely. We spent the night in the bunkhouse on Snowbank Lake. The next day we took the short drive to the official entry point #27 to head out into the wilderness. Complete Photo Gallery
Route Map 2024 (Click to Enlarge)
The weather forecast was windy with a dash of rain in the middle. This mostly came to pass with temps dropping near freezing on the final night.
Weather Forecast
Long First Day
The first portage was the longest at 140 rods (2310 ft, 0.44 mile). There were seven portages in all on the way to Ima Lake. Several of these are very short between small connector lakes.
Portage at Jitterbug Lake
The smaller lakes where part of extensive wetlands with lots of fall flowers, sphagnum moss, tamarack just starting to turn yellow, and even a few spent pitcher plants.
Purple Asters Along the Portage
Red Sphagnum and Haircap Moss
We got to Ima in the late afternoon and proceeded to the large campsite on the north end of the major island. This is fronted by an impressive dome of rock more than 100 yards wide.
Large Island Campsite on Ima
Our First Happy Hour
I pitched my tent on the windward side and it was (no surprise) very windy. So much so I decided to move before the predicted rain storm rolled in. It was warm enough to sleep with the sleeping bag loosely draped around me. That would change also.
First Hammock Site
Settling In
The next day we started out with a hot breakfast of bagels an eggs. Most of our cooking took place behind a large rock to keep the stoves out of the wind.
First Breakfast
In the afternoon we had nine Spruce Grouse wander through our camp. We think it was a hen with her nearly-grown brood.
Spruce Grouse
The second hammock site was a bit of a challenge, but a real confirmation of how flexible hammock camping can be. I was pitched over a fallen log and a large rock! It turned out to be a perfect place to weather the storm that blew in overnight! (The rain fly is folded back in this photo. The brown fabric is an inexpensive underquilt I brought to help keep out the cold.)
Second Hammock Site
Enjoying the Morning Mists
The rain ended and the temperature started to drop as the wind shifted to the northeast. It was not a good day to go out in the canoes so we mostly hung out, read our books, and napped. In the evening we hunkered down in a sheltered spot and had an excellent taco dinner.
Dinner in a Sheltered Spot
Sunset After the Rain
Side Trip
On the fourth day the wind dropped off and we went on a day trip south to Alworth Lake. There is a nice campsite just off the portage in a grove of large white pines. It faces south and has a nice view through the trees.
Richard and Ross
There is also a nice, but rarely used campsite on a small island. We stopped there for a snack and took this group photo.
Group Photo on Alworth Island Campsite
Starting Back
We decided to move camp for the last night to get some of the portaging out of the way. We retraced our path through this narrows (part of Lake Jordan) with several interesting cliffs.
Lake Jordan Narrows with Cliffs
Our initial goal was a campsite with a beach on Jordan, but it was occupied so we kept going. We ended up at a high, “compact” site on Lake Ahsub. It’s on the side of a rock outcrop with several unusual tree species, including this maple, cherry, and mountain ash.
Maple Seeds
For the first time on this trip the wind died down so we could have a fire. It was also clear and cold! We think it touched freezing by morning.
The Town of Motor with a large gristmill took shape in the 1870s along the Turkey River in Clayton County Iowa. Nothing remains of the town itself, but the mill and associated buildings survive. The Mill is situated at a narrow bend in the Turkey River. It was built of limestone quarried from the nearby cliff top and oak from the surrounding forest. [Full Gallery]
At that time the major crop grown locally was Wheat (almost none today)–and wheat must be ground into flour in order to sell it. With this in mind, the partners built a state-of-the-art mill and the infrastructure to support it.
The Site
The Motor Mill site is picturesque to say the least. This drone photograph from motormill.org shows the five remaining stone buildings. From left to right they are: The Stable, The Inn, The Smokehouse, The Mill, and the Cooperage. The town itself was to the right and part of that area is now a public campground. The Inn has recently been reopened with a gift shop and overnight accommodations.
Site Overview from motormill.org
Farmers would come in horse-drawn wagons with their crop. After unloading the farmer would stable his horses and take a room at the inn. Bulk flour was typically shipped in wooden barrels and these were produced locally by the cooperage.
Inside
After the business failed, the property was sold and the mill became a barn. As such, much of the internal machinery was sold off. One notable exception are the four grindstones. These are embedded in a raised platform that is structurally isolated from the rest of the building. When the mill was operating, four companion stones weighing hundreds of pounds each would spin at 90rpm on top of these fixed stones to do the grinding. Apparently this generated lots of noise and vibration!
One of Four Grindstones
Operationally the mill relied on gravity to do much of the work moving product around. This schematic captures most of the complexity (click to enlarge).
Operational Schematic of the Mill ↗
There were a series of “elevators” (similar to the belt shown below) that would bring materials to the upper floors. (Also note the 12×12 inch solid oak beams used in construction!)
Part of Elevator Belt
The grain or unfinished flour would then fall through a series of separator and cleaning machines. The site has recently obtained antique equipment similar to that used in the original mill. The apparatus in the foreground is labeled “Flour Dresser”.
Typical Processing Equipment
Recent Discoveries
The Mill was derelict until very recently. A non-profit foundation is now in charge of preserving and making it available to the public. Great progress has been made in the past two years. In particular, the huge vaulted basement was mostly unexplored due to twenty feet of river mud deposited there by frequent floods. Volunteer excavators and archeologists “dug in” to find out what lay below all that mud.
Basement After Excavation
In the photo above the mud has already returned to a level above the outlets to the river. The rectangular openings on the left are overflow ports. The power for the mill came from vertical water turbines. This is a more efficient design than the classic waterwheel. On the lower right is one of the vertical shafts transmitting power from the turbine below.
It was thought, and some illustrations still show, that there were three turbines. However, it became clear during the excavation that there were four. Not only that, these were not made out of steel, but crafted from the local oak!
Wooden Turbine Discovery ↗
One of the turbines has been preserved and is on display!
Wooden Turbine Blades
Together these four hand-crafted wood turbines developed about 250 horsepower to run all the machinery in the mill!
Dam & Water Flow Details ↗
360 Panoramas
I recently had a chance to walk through the entire Mill with my 360 camera.
Mill Stone 360 Panorama ↗
The above “little planet” projection shows one of four mill wheels. Power came from below, turning the top stone (now removed) on the base stone seen here. The grain was fed in from top and the milled product left thru the small opening on the right.
The sort video above shows the raw rectilinear footage followed by a “little planet” rendering of same.
This year we planned an aggressive trip—going down the Gulf Coast to access the narrow Wood River and then loop back through the various inland bays. Yet again we were thwarted by adverse winds… [More Photos…]
Route Map 2024
Day 1 (Rabbit Key)
We set out from Everglades City on a rising tide. There was a small craft warning that day with wind gusts to 25 knots. It was a mostly offshore so the waves were a modest one foot. Once out in the Gulf, we hopped from small island to small island. We had no problem making it to Rabbit Key.
The best campsite is now on the north end just above the large sand spit. [The passage between Rabbit and Lumber Keys appeared to be gone BTW.] When we got there the tide was going out, so after unloading our boats we went for a walk around the island (always a fun thing to do!). The only unexpected change was a thick mat of red seaweed (or algae?) on the side facing the Gulf.
Red Seaweed or Algae
Horseshoe Crab and Snail Egg Case
Our tent this year was new and came with thin wire stakes. I bought some large, flat sand/snow stakes and they worked exceedingly well. The only issue is they required a mallet or rock to drive them into the compacted shell debris under the sand.
Rabbit Key Campsite
Day 2 (Lopez River)
The next morning started calm, with the tide went out. This gave us plenty of time to get up, walk around, have breakfast, and get things packed. As the tide rose the wind came back with a vengeance (it was predicted to decrease each day?). We checked our radio and the forecast had changed to increased winds for the next two days. We were going to be more and more exposed on the coast so we decided to divert inland (just like last year.).
Sunrise on Rabbit Key
We headed back to Rabbit Key Pass to get into the Lopez River. We must have been taking lots of waves from behind because my boat began to fill up with water. At first I thought this must be a leak below the waterline, but it turned out to be the waves over the stern (a relief actually). Only baseline leakage for the rest of the trip. No big deal!
Near Chokoloskee I had cell service so I called to amend our permit. It was very odd. The person I talked to could tell me the Lopez River Campsite was open, but could not actually change the permit. I think this is a real problem with the conversion to recreation.gov, there is no flexibility or local control anymore. [They also no longer handle “walk-up permits” at the Visitor Center.] This is NOT an improvement IMO!
Bugs at Lopez River Campsite
The campsite was indeed unoccupied, but out of the wind, so it was buggy. We got my boat out of the water to check for leaks (there were none). We had an early dinner and went to bed at dusk.
Day 3 (Darwin’s Place)
The next day was basically a long crawl across several large bays against the wind (and sometimes the tide!). Other than a few fishing boats ducking behind islands, we did not see anyone else. Our target was the ground site at Darwin’s Place, thinking it would be unoccupied. So we were surprised to meet a husband and wife from Tennessee who had come that day from Sweetwater in a canoe!
They were very nice and had no problem with our unexpected arrival. Fewer bugs because there was a breeze into the evening. We were pretty much exhausted so it was a quick dinner and into the tent. We both slept very well!
Leaving Darwin’s Place
Days 4 & 5 (Willy Willy)
At this point it was a bit too far to Camp Lonesome (to get back on our original itinerary) so we decided to go directly to Willy Willy, stay two days, explore, and see what that area had to offer.
On the way we had to traverse two long creeks. As we were about to enter Alligator Creek, two dolphins came out and made big wakes right under my kayak. Along Plate Creek we encountered a medium-sized hawk with nearly all black plumage. I later keyed this out as a Zone-Tailed Hawk, which is normally found in the Southwest!
Zone-Tailed Hawk Along Plate Creek
The wind was still there, but a bit less. The high overcast abated and the sun came out. Midday we rafted together and ate lunch on the float. (Up until this point we were just chugging along eating energy food all day.) I should mention how well avocados work as trail food!
Our Floating Lunch
Mmmm… Avocado Sandwiches
Willy Willy was not what we expected: reasonably open, enough breeze to keep the bugs off, perfectly clear (and fresh) water! As we were unloading a 6-8 foot gator approached and then submerged just below the dock. It was like watching him in an aquarium exhibit! I thought it could be a problem but he got bored when we didn’t engage, backed off, and we didn’t see him again after a few hours.
Willy Willy Campsite
Willy Willy Dinner
We had a beautiful counter-sunset and it was the full moon.
Willy Willy Sunset
Day 6 (Plate Creek Chickee)
By the third day were finally back on our permit and headed north. The wind had diminished but not changed direction so for the first and only time we got to sail most of the day!
Our One Day of Sailing
We got to the Plate Creek Chickee easily and early. The light breeze continued so there were no bugs. There were two gators cruising around but neither approached us in an aggressive manner.
Just at sunset we started to see small flocks of Roseate Spoonbills all headed in the same direction to rooker-up for the night. Then they just kept on coming!! In one formation we counted thirty five. We estimate we saw about eighty of these rare birds before darkness fell.
Flocks of Roseate Spoonbills
The tent (without fly) fit the chickee well. (My old tent was more hexagonal, so effectively occupied more floor space.) The breeze fell just at dusk and the bugs moved in so we were more than ready to get inside and close the doors! We woke to a thick fog in the morning.
Foggy Morning on Plate Creek Chickee
Day 7 (Lopez River)
Again we listened to the marine forecast on our radio. A cold front was coming and sometime that day the wind would shift from SE to NW and might be a steady 25 knots! We decided to make haste through as many large bays as we could before the change and camp at either Crooked Creek or Lopez River.
Lopez River Campsite
This was a good decision. After a very long, but not unpleasant day we pulled into the Lopez River Campsite (for the second time) just at dusk. We made camp and had a deluxe dinner of Pad Thai and Mango Sticky Rice. No bugs this time and much cooler. We slept well.
Trail’s End
The next day there was indeed a 20 knot plus wind from the NW. We elected to take the Chokoloskee Canal to avoid wind on the bayside, and had some problems with mud at low tide. It was a good thing we’d gotten so far the day before! We were out by 2pm and met two large groups of high school students about to go out on their first canoe trips…
Our trip this year was challenging and highlights the capabilities of peddle kayaks. We logged three 18+ mile days AGAINST 10-20 knot winds without too much trouble. There is no question in my mind that we’re seeing the results of Climate Change with ever increasing energy in the atmosphere. Future trips will have to take this into consideration.
Epilogue
Desert Solitaire Book
I had the good fortune to pick up this paperback copy of “Desert Solitaire” by Edward Abbey for reading material on the trip. It is an excellent book for both the stories and the perspective on our National Park System (of which the Everglades is a part). With all the tent time I read most of it by the end of the trip.
