The Motor Mill

Motor Mill and Bridge
Motor Mill and Bridge

The Town of Motor with a large gristmill took shape in the 1870s along the Turkey River in Clayton County Iowa. Nothing remains of the town itself, but the mill and associated buildings survive. The Mill is situated at a narrow bend in the Turkey River. It was built of limestone quarried from the nearby cliff top and oak from the surrounding forest. [Full Gallery]

At that time the major crop grown locally was Wheat (almost none today)–and wheat must be ground into flour in order to sell it. With this in mind, the partners built a state-of-the-art mill and the infrastructure to support it.

The Site

The Motor Mill site is picturesque to say the least. This drone photograph from motormill.org shows the five remaining stone buildings. From left to right they are: The Stable, The Inn, The Smokehouse, The Mill, and the Cooperage. The town itself was to the right and part of that area is now a public campground. The Inn has recently been reopened with a gift shop and overnight accommodations.

Site Overview from motormill.org
Site Overview from motormill.org

Farmers would come in horse-drawn wagons with their crop. After unloading the farmer would stable his horses and take a room at the inn. Bulk flour was typically shipped in wooden barrels and these were produced locally by the cooperage.

Inside

After the business failed, the property was sold and the mill became a barn. As such, much of the internal machinery was sold off. One notable exception are the four grindstones. These are embedded in a raised platform that is structurally isolated from the rest of the building. When the mill was operating, four companion stones weighing hundreds of pounds each would spin at 90rpm on top of these fixed stones to do the grinding. Apparently this generated lots of noise and vibration!

One of Four Grindstones
One of Four Grindstones

Operationally the mill relied on gravity to do much of the work moving product around. This schematic captures most of the complexity (click to enlarge).

Operational Schematic of the Mill
Operational Schematic of the Mill

There were a series of “elevators” (similar to the belt shown below) that would bring materials to the upper floors. (Also note the 12×12 inch solid oak beams used in construction!)

Part of Elevator Belt
Part of Elevator Belt

The grain or unfinished flour would then fall through a series of separator and cleaning machines. The site has recently obtained antique equipment similar to that used in the original mill. The apparatus in the foreground is labeled “Flour Dresser”.

Typical Processing Equipment
Typical Processing Equipment

Recent Discoveries

The Mill was derelict until very recently. A non-profit foundation is now in charge of preserving and making it available to the public. Great progress has been made in the past two years. In particular, the huge vaulted basement was mostly unexplored due to twenty feet of river mud deposited there by frequent floods. Volunteer excavators and archeologists “dug in” to find out what lay below all that mud.

Basement After Excavation
Basement After Excavation

In the photo above the mud has already returned to a level above the outlets to the river. The rectangular openings on the left are overflow ports. The power for the mill came from vertical water turbines. This is a more efficient design than the classic waterwheel. On the lower right is one of the vertical shafts transmitting power from the turbine below.

It was thought, and some illustrations still show, that there were three turbines. However, it became clear during the excavation that there were four. Not only that, these were not made out of steel, but crafted from the local oak!

Wooden Turbine Discovery
Wooden Turbine Discovery

One of the turbines has been preserved and is on display!

Wooden Turbine Blades
Wooden Turbine Blades

Together these four hand-crafted wood turbines developed about 250 horsepower to run all the machinery in the mill!

Dam & Water Flow Details
Dam & Water Flow Details

360 Panoramas

I recently had a chance to walk through the entire Mill with my 360 camera.

Mill Stone 360 Panorama

The above “little planet” projection shows one of four mill wheels. Power came from below, turning the top stone (now removed) on the base stone seen here. The grain was fed in from top and the milled product left thru the small opening on the right.

The sort video above shows the raw rectilinear footage followed by a “little planet” rendering of same.

For more info check out the Motor Mill Website!

Chaco Canyon 2023

Chaco Canyon Entrance
Chaco Canyon Entrance

After braving the nearly washed out road from the north I arrived around 9am. I had to “walk” my Prius diagonally over piles of gravel and exposed rock faces. This was my third attempt over twenty years to visit this important site. (The first two failed because the roads were completely washed out!) [Full Gallery]

The map below shows the basic layout of the park (click to enlarge). Most of the sites are easy walking distance from the main loop drive.

Chaco Canyon Map source:nps.gov
Chaco Canyon Map (source:nps.gov)

A short walk from the Vistors Center is the small un-excavated ruins of Una Vida. The prominent Fajada Butte is seen in the distance. This is the location of the famous “Sun Dagger” astronomical feature presumed to mark the summer solstice.

Una Vida Ruins and Fajada Butte
Una Vida Ruins and Fajada Butte

A short scramble above that are impressive Petroglyphs inscribed into the cliff face.

Look Up! Petroglyphs
Look Up! Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs Detail
Petroglyphs Detail

The focal point of the entire park is Pueblo Bonito, a huge stone edifice that contained over six hundred rooms and dozens of circular ceremonial structures called “Kivas”. (source:nps sign)

Pueblo Bonito Sign
Pueblo Bonito Sign

The walls nearest the cliff were crushed by a rock slide after the structure was abandoned. The rounded walls are the remains of various kivas.

Pueblo Bonito Panorama
Pueblo Bonito Panorama

One quadrant has been restored so visitors may explore a warren of small rooms. Notice the very low doors and what remains of wooden timbers holding up the floors above. The stone in the foreground was used to grind corn. The consensus is these rooms were not residential but related to the ritual use of the site.

Pueblo Bonito 360 Panorama
Pueblo Bonito 360 Panorama

The nearby ruins of Chetro Ketl features a Great Kiva 62 feet in diameter. Notice the two seated visitors for scale!

Chetro Ketl Great Kiva
Chetro Ketl Great Kiva

The remains of Chacoan Stairways can be seen in several places behind the ruins. These are no mere “Moki Steps” but wide grand staircases leading to cerimonial roads throughout the area.

Chacoan Stairway
Chacoan Stairway

Several flowering plants were abundant due to recent rainfall. This particularly showy example is Emory’s Globemallow.

Emory's Globemallow
Emory’s Globemallow

The Pueblo Alto Trail starts above the Kin Kletso ruins. I attempted this late in the day after finding out there were no more campsites available that night. The trail went straight up into a huge crack in the rock!

Cliff Rim Trail Above Kin Kletso Ruins
Cliff Rim Trail Above Kin Kletso Ruins

As I was ascending I noticed one boulder that was different then all the others. It had Fossils! Mostly cross-sections I thought. Here is what some online geologist friends speculated…

“Mostly cross-sections of fossil shells, mostly bivalves & I think a gastropod.”

“…the large white mass consists of opaque secondary calcite that precipitated in an empty shell post-deposition, in contrast to the others that filled with silt or lime mud shortly after death.”

Fossils
Fossils

I climbed about two hundred feet to the stone rim.

Cliff Rim Trail Panorama
Cliff Rim Trail Panorama

There were helpful signs along the way, including this one calling attention to several man-made basins pecked out of the rock where water would sometimes flow.

Water Collection Basins
Water Collection Basins

I finally got to the overlook where you could survey Pueblo Bonito in all its glory!

Pueblo Bonito from Above
Pueblo Bonito from Above

At that point I had to turn back and start my downward climb… (Alternate Video)

Note: The trail went through a huge crack in the rock face. I used a Theta S 360 Camera to capture my descent. At one point I was also fighting a 20+ mph headwind! It looks very steep at the end… IT WAS!

I ate dinner as the setting sun lit the virga falling from late afternoon clouds.

Chaco Canyon Sunset
Chaco Canyon Sunset

What I missed…

I did not have time for the seven mile hike to see the Supernova & Comet Pictographs near the Penasco Blanco ruins (picture shown here from Wiki Commons). The “starburst” figure may document the 1054 CE Crab Nebula Supernova.

Supernova & Comet Pictographs source:wikicommons
Supernova Pictograph (source:wiki_commons)

I left the park at dusk via the south entrance road. Fortunately this route was in better shape and the main hazards were multiple tall cattle grates that threatened to high center my car.

More Photos…

Lake Powell & Beyond 2020

Six Night Lake Powell Trip (Click Map to Enlarge)

It had been ten years since I last visited Lake Powell. This year I went with my college friend Al and his partner Marian. [Full Gallery] Not having our own boat, we decided to rent a houseboat from the Bullfrog Marina. This turned out to be a great idea! With a few exceptions it was clean and well maintained (certain lights and the gas grill did not work). The main problem was how late in the day we got started (nominal “check in” time is 10am, we did not leave until after 3pm). For various reasons the day we left was very crowded (COVID19, low water facilitating small boat campers, last big week-end of the summer, etc.)

On Our Way!

In the few hours we had on the first day we headed north to Forgotten Canyon. It was packed with small boats and large groups of people camped on the beaches exposed by the low water level. We retreated and found a small anchorage on a large bend near a side canyon (which we explored by kayak first thing the next day).

Our First Kayak Excursion
Alcove with 100 Foot Dry Waterfall Above

On Day 2 we moved back up the canyon so we could be closer to activities on land. [We were treated both nights to inappropriate music, bad karaoke and loud boat engines. I put in my earbuds and listened to Earth Spirit by R. Carlos Nakai (Native American flute) while sleeping out under the stars.]

Defiance House Petroglyphs

That evening (after most of the day’s heat was gone) we made the first of two visits to the eight hundred year old Defiance House Ruins. These are very well stabilized and open to the public. (Kudos to the Park Service!) The first thing you notice are the large petroglyphs on the canyon wall. There is no ambiguity as to their meaning… three warriors with shields and weapons.

Defiance House Main Structure

The site consists of two major rooms with doors facing in opposite directions. The largest is approximately 8-10 feet on a side. There is a patio beyond the structure with a vertical entrance to the Kiva. (Large Panorama)

Defiance House and Kiva Entrance (Click to Enlarge)
Kiva Ceiling with 800 Year Old Soot from Campfires

We returned the next day (Day 3) and I took some additional 360° panoramas.

Defiance House Ruins (Click to Enlarge)

We then proceeded about two miles up the canyon. We saw many interesting things including ravens, flowers being pollenated (or eaten?) by large black hornets with orange wings, and what I think were three-toed dinosaur tracks!

The day was very hot so we took a siesta near a grove of small oak trees before we headed back to the boat. In spite of my best efforts I got dehydrated. The temp was in the low 90s with very low humidity. It just sucked the water out of me!

On Day 4 we left that area to do more exploring. We ended up in Lake Canyon (which apparently is a very hard place to find anchorage with higher water). It was less crowded and the people were more considerate, which was a plus. We again used our inflatable kayak to explore a side canyon in the late afternoon.

On Day 5 we headed up the main canyon in what turned out to be a delightful wet-boot hike. It was very pleasant to have running water available at all times!

Upper Lake Canyon

There were lots of trees and flowers in bloom. We saw several critters including a toad (red-spotted?) and a bat (dead?). We also passed a small ruins high on the canyon wall.

On Day 6 we again picked up our anchors and moved to Iceberg Canyon with its cyclopean rock walls—Truly Magnificent! Here we finally found some real solitude in our own little side canyon where we swam and relaxed.

Iceberg Canyon Campsite

We took out the kayak and explored the three arms of the upper canyon. We had to maneuver around hundreds of dead trees protruding from the low water.

The south arm has a rockfall that created a separate small lake. Compare with these photos [1] [2] I took in 2010 to see how much lower the water is.

The next day we headed back to Bullfrog and civilization. Click on the video below for clips from each canyon we visited.

Leaving Iceberg Canyon

See the Full Gallery for more photos of petroglyphs, HDR photos, and panoramas–including my lightening tour of nearby parks Goblin Valley, Capital Reef, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and Bryce Canyon. I concluded by crossing the Colorado River at the Glen Canyon Dam (which creates Lake Powell!).