Mountain Bike Trip to The Maze 2019

It would be hard to top our 4WD/bike trip to the White Rim in Canyonlands National Park last year, but entering the isolated subunit called The Maze was a strong contender! [Gallery]

Glen, Richard, Jeff, Bren, Bill, Rick
source:nps.gov (click to enlarge)

This was not a loop trail, but a very challenging, out-and-back trek to the edge of the Colorado River Canyon. We spent most of the first day just getting to the trailhead on the extreme western edge of the park and establishing our first camp at Happy Canyon. I pitched my hammock between a juniper and a pinyon pine and was rocked to sleep by the wind all night.

The riding got serious the next day going down the face of the Orange Cliffs on the Flint Trail.

It was very steep and difficult even for the vehicles. I did a lot of walking. Things only got worse the rest of the day with loose rocks, sand and drop-offs. We met a county employee with a huge 6WD Grader who was actually maintaining the road (“every seven years whether it needs it our not”). When we told him where we were headed he laughed and said “We haven’t been back there in thirty years!”

The area around Teapot Rock was especially challenging, requiring spotters and backing up around impossible corners. Late in the day we finally made it to the Land of Standing Rocks, a windswept plain punctuated by fantastic rock formations receding into the distance. It was magical!

Jeff & Rick at The Wall

We camped about an hour before dusk at Chimney Rock. It was cold and windy but we made the best of it with G&Ts and hot food prepared in a Dutch Oven by Glen.

The next day we went for a long, meandering hike following the canyon rim.

We saw many strange and beautiful things including odd box-work erosion patterns in the stone. They looked like apartment complexes for tiny people!

On our return to camp we relaxed with a caprese salad, beer, & G&Ts before a multi-course dinner. Hard to beat! That night it got down in the 20s but fortunately the wind died down.

Bill, Rick & Jeff at Chimney Rock

The next day we headed down the relatively easy road to The Doll House. Along the way we met at pair of hikers who had crossed the Colorado River from Spanish Bottom in Inflatable Kayaks (!) that they had in their packs! They planned to hike upriver and paddle back to their car on the other side. Amazing!

The Doll House is an area of huge striped rock towers with little doll-like figurines on top. The formation is an extension of The Needles region immediately across the river.

We camped at site #3 on the opposite side with spectacular views!

I found a perfect place to hang my hammock between a boulder and an old juniper tree. Room with a View indeed!

Moon Rising Over Colorado River Canyon & The Needles
Richard & Bill in the Valley of the Dolls

On the fifth day, alas, we had to turn homeward. I had a great time cycling several miles with Jeff as we retraced our route. We did not climb back up the Flint Trail however, exiting near the tiny town of Hite on the extreme upper end of Lake Powell. It was a spectacular trip!

Boundary Waters Canoe Trip 2019

This year we returned to the Gunflint Trail and entered via Poplar Lake. [Gallery] Our party of four became just Ross and I due to circumstances beyond anyone’s control. This was exacerbated by horrendous wind and cold rain on the drive up. Fortunately we had a place to stay (a family cabin) and waited an extra day for the weather to improve.

Crossing Poplar turned out to be the hardest part of the trip. We started with a cold headwind and couldn’t find the portage at first.

After that everything fell into place, the weather improved and we made good time by double-packing. We arrived on Gaskin Lake by mid-afternoon and snagged one of the best campsites located on a small island.

I found a great place to hang my hammock tent just above a short cliff.

There were several great viewpoints where we had happy hour and meals. The bugs were few and the weather mild.

The sunsets were spectacular, especially with a pair of loons to serenade us.

Our first day trip led us north to Allen Lake, which has a single campsite. It is long, thin and pretty shallow. On the western end it is surrounded by bog with many pitcher plants.

Since we were camped on a small island, we collected firewood on the way back.

And we both went swimming off a very convenient rock ledge.

Next day Ross cooked up one of his famous breakfasts.

And we headed out to Winchell Lake for the day. This is one of the best lakes in the BWCA. Its south shore is defined by the Misquah Hills, which rise up several hundred feet and even sport a few cliffs. The north shore is much lower and all the campsites are located along it. Some of the area has burned in the past few decades creating a mosaic of different forest types.

We revisited a campsite I stayed at in 2002. It looked even better! Nearby was a small waterfall draining out of the lake. It has a pool big enough to bathe in and a nice white cedar grove below.

The trip out was uneventful with lots of fall color showing along the portages.

Until next time…

Solo Everglades Sailing 2019

Just back from a foreshortened Everglades Trip due to adverse weather (thunderstorms, winds in excess of 30 knots). Had a great time in spite of the contingencies! [Gallery]

This was a proof-of-concept trip in many ways: first trip on a sailing kayak with akas (outriggers) and homemade hakas (benches) for hiking out and potentially sleeping on board.

The Federal Government was closed due to the #trumpshutdown so I had to self-register. Hats off to the National Park Staff who WERE working in the background to keep the place safe and clean. I assume they weren’t getting paid!

I happened to leave on the morning of the Super Blood Wolf Moon so the tides were extreme. This delayed my departure.

Once out in the Gulf the wind died and I peddled to the far end of Pavilion Key to make camp.

There were no bugs so I slept out under the stars on top of my benches. This worked remarkably well. Being four inches above the sand is much better than being down in it!

The wind rose the next day by the time the tide was coming in and I could set out. I estimate 20 knots or more with gusts above 30!  I reefed in my sail by half and proceeded to have a wild ride across the gap between islands. My homemade hiking stick failed so I had to steer with my foot. It was only a little terrifying.

At that point I decided not to proceed down the coast and instead circle back to the relative shelter of Rabbit Key. I had taken on 3-4 gallons of water but my gear was remarkably dry.

I did some reading and exploring until dusk when I again slept under the stars on my benches.

The next day I was unwilling to wait for the afternoon tide so I portaged my gear out to the water. There were many tide pool critters crawling around including several large conchs.

At that point another sailing kayak (!) pulled up using a small motor and two folks from Wisconsin got out. We had a nice chat before I cast off. I got back to my car after some more hairy sailing and sheltering behind islands.