I went for a quick solo kayak trip to Hall Creek near Cedar Key (putting in at the #4 Bridge off of Highway 24. I last visited this area in 2012 with a friend.
Source:Google (Click to Enlarge)
The first mile or so is very shallow and I made a few mistakes on my way to Live Oak Key, where there is a narrow channel through the oyster beds. Surprisingly the old oak tree on the point is still alive! [compare with 2012]
Live Oak Key
The next “bay” is deeper until you approach the creek entrance. I saw lots of birds including a molting Loon and White Pelicans.
Crystal River Nuke Plant in the Distance
I hit the creek near low tide so it was hard to follow. I made several minor wrong turns.
The campsite sits on an eroded ridge of limestone that provides just enough support for several small hammocks of hardy trees. Since I last visited all the non-palm trees have died (due to hurricanes?).
Hall Creek Hammock
I saw no evidence of recent use by humans and had to break a trail through the scrub to get to the campsite, which was surprisingly nice considering much of the remaining area has been taken over by prickly pear cactus!
The View from My Hammock
There were a few noseeums in the late afternoon/morning, and a few mosquitos just after sunset. My Bug Shirt handled these with no problem. Two Rosette Spoonbills flew over just as the sun was setting.
I took several walks and saw several birds at a distance. There are small rock outcrops, tidal ponds, more hammocks, and a whole forest of dead trees as you move inland. There were surprisingly few flowers for April, but there was a lot of this ground cover I named gummy-worm plant or gummywort.
Finally there was new evidence of global warming — lots of small Red Mangrove pioneers. There were NONE in 2012 as far as I can remember. This means their range is moving north. The place would be much different if all the islands grew full mangrove ecosystems!
It started out so well… then the wind and waves shut us down–again. I haven’t had a “normal” Everglades trip since 2017! [Gallery]
I decided to try December to see if conditions would be better than the usual time in January. It did not make any difference in the end. On the plus side there were no bugs!
Roseate Spoonbills at the Put-In
The first day was low-key peddling the five miles out to Jewel Key. The day started warm and calm but by the time we arrived the wind was rising and the temperature was falling fast. We found a nice little place out the wind for our kitchen and I slept out in the open under the stars.
Rick slept in a small tent which we had to tie down to keep it from blowing away. We both used small cots to keep things comfortable. We saw over a hundred White Pelicans while we were there.
The next day began sunny and cold. We decided to make an attempt to sail downwind. We didn’t get very far because, even with reefed sails, there was so much wind we could not steer the boats!
Photo does not do justice to the waves!
We originally planned to do a big loop up the Lostman’s River. But we decided to bail out at Rabbit Key after being pushed around by the following seas. The problem is you can’t really see what’s coming. When a big wave strikes you are forced off course or nearly pitched out of the boat!
What had been the main campsite was in bad shape due to recent storms and perhaps lack of maintenance (?), so we took what used to be the secondary site on the point. I’ve camped here several times over the years and it’s only gotten better with powdered-sugar sand and healthy mangroves for cover.
Fortunately for us Rick brought a box of Cabernet to fortify our bivouac. We even had time for a driftwood fire on the beach.
Rick stayed in his tent while I went back in the woods to hang my hammock.
Note the cot!Note use of the rainfly as a windbreak!
We walked the entire shore at low tide and met the local Ospreys nesting there.
Our Collection of Trinkets
After two nights the wind calmed and we headed back to the take-out. We finally had a chance to sail and there was enough wind for Rick to flip over. He self-rescued quickly but we had to stop to pump water out of his boat. We got back to the car just as the sun was setting.
It had been ten years since I last visited Lake Powell. This year I went with my college friend Al and his partner Marian. [Full Gallery] Not having our own boat, we decided to rent a houseboat from the Bullfrog Marina. This turned out to be a great idea! With a few exceptions it was clean and well maintained (certain lights and the gas grill did not work). The main problem was how late in the day we got started (nominal “check in” time is 10am, we did not leave until after 3pm). For various reasons the day we left was very crowded (COVID19, low water facilitating small boat campers, last big week-end of the summer, etc.)
On Our Way!
In the few hours we had on the first day we headed north to Forgotten Canyon. It was packed with small boats and large groups of people camped on the beaches exposed by the low water level. We retreated and found a small anchorage on a large bend near a side canyon (which we explored by kayak first thing the next day).
Our First Kayak ExcursionAlcove with 100 Foot Dry Waterfall Above
On Day 2 we moved back up the canyon so we could be closer to activities on land. [We were treated both nights to inappropriate music, bad karaoke and loud boat engines. I put in my earbuds and listened to Earth Spirit by R. Carlos Nakai (Native American flute) while sleeping out under the stars.]
Defiance House Petroglyphs
That evening (after most of the day’s heat was gone) we made the first of two visits to the eight hundred year oldDefiance House Ruins. These are very well stabilized and open to the public. (Kudos to the Park Service!) The first thing you notice are the large petroglyphs on the canyon wall. There is no ambiguity as to their meaning… three warriors with shields and weapons.
Defiance House Main Structure
The site consists of two major rooms with doors facing in opposite directions. The largest is approximately 8-10 feet on a side. There is a patio beyond the structure with a vertical entrance to the Kiva. (Large Panorama)
Defiance House and Kiva Entrance (Click to Enlarge)Kiva Ceiling with 800 Year Old Soot from Campfires
We returned the next day (Day 3) and I took some additional 360° panoramas.
Defiance House Ruins (Click to Enlarge)
We then proceeded about two miles up the canyon. We saw many interesting things including ravens, flowers being pollenated (or eaten?) by large black hornets with orange wings, and what I think were three-toed dinosaur tracks!
The day was very hot so we took a siesta near a grove of small oak trees before we headed back to the boat. In spite of my best efforts I got dehydrated. The temp was in the low 90s with very low humidity. It just sucked the water out of me!
On Day 4 we left that area to do more exploring. We ended up in Lake Canyon (which apparently is a very hard place to find anchorage with higher water). It was less crowded and the people were more considerate, which was a plus. We again used our inflatable kayak to explore a side canyon in the late afternoon.
On Day 5 we headed up the main canyon in what turned out to be a delightful wet-boot hike. It was very pleasant to have running water available at all times!
Upper Lake Canyon
There were lots of trees and flowers in bloom. We saw several critters including a toad (red-spotted?) and a bat (dead?). We also passed a small ruins high on the canyon wall.
On Day 6 we again picked up our anchors and moved to Iceberg Canyon with its cyclopean rock walls—Truly Magnificent! Here we finally found some real solitude in our own little side canyon where we swam and relaxed.
Iceberg Canyon Campsite
We took out the kayak and explored the three arms of the upper canyon. We had to maneuver around hundreds of dead trees protruding from the low water.
The south arm has a rockfall that created a separate small lake. Compare with these photos [1][2] I took in 2010 to see how much lower the water is.
The next day we headed back to Bullfrog and civilization. Click on the video below for clips from each canyon we visited.
Leaving Iceberg Canyon
See the Full Gallery for more photos of petroglyphs, HDR photos, and panoramas–including my lightening tour of nearby parks Goblin Valley, Capital Reef, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and Bryce Canyon. I concluded by crossing the Colorado River at the Glen Canyon Dam (which creates Lake Powell!).
