Marmot Tungsten 4p Tent Review

Here is my “unpacking the box” review of the 2023 Tungsten Four Person Tent from Marmot. Overall the materials and workmanship appear to be excellent.

Tent Bag Label
Tent Bag Label

Basics

This is a classic “dome tent” with a rectangular floor and several features of note…

Lightweight aluminum poles define the four corners and are connected by a hinge at the peak. The segment nearest the ground is “pre-bent” to keep the sidewalls near vertical. Two end sections are blue to help guide setup.

Tent Pole Hinge
Tent Pole Hinge

You can erect the basic structure with only the “footprint” (aka custom ground cloth). This is nice and not possible with many tents. It creates a stable clean surface to unfold the tent itself. It does not seem possible to put up the fly without the tent (if it’s raining or as a sun shelter).

Tent Poles and Footprint
Tent Poles and Footprint

The tent walls clip onto the frame easily, followed by the cross-poles. These pull out the door panels yielding near vertical sidewalls. I really like this design. Many similar tents have a single cross-pole, with less door clearance and stability.

Basic Setup w/o Fly
Basic Setup w/o Fly

At this point you have a reasonably strong free-standing tent that you can move around as needed. Note that no stakes were needed up to this point (on a non-windy day).

Interior and Doors
Interior and Doors

The large doors are identical. There are four traditional small gear pockets near the corners and two “headlamp defuser” pockets in the ceiling. There are also four attachment points around the peak so a gear loft would be possible (but not included).

Fly Setup
Fly Setup

The fly is a standard “staked-out vestibule” design. It takes four stakes (or rocks, tree roots, etc.) to fully shape the fly. Again note that the fly door is wide and crosses the midline. This would not be the case with a single cross-pole. There are two small pop-out vents in the fly, one next to each door. It remains to be seen if these are adequate when the doors are completely closed. It is not obvious if the doors can be rigged partially open.

Vent in Fly
Vent in Fly

This slightly distorted panorama should give you an idea of the interior size. When car or beach camping I bring lightweight cots as show here. For two people, each with their own door, this tent is palatial! It would be confortable for three, but very cramped for four adults.

Tent Interior with Cot
Tent Interior with Cot

Specifics

I discovered three things that were not obvious and not documented as far as I can tell.

First, if you look at the panorama above, notice the left sidewall is higher than the right. It is unclear to me why this is so?

Next, there is a second set of four grommets under the fly that should be positioned over the ends of the cross-poles (gold webbing in photo). These are very hard to find unless you know where to look!

Grommets Under Fly
Grommets Under Fly

The third is to engage the large black clips over both poles where they cross. This doesn’t affect the fly, but gives the entire tent structure more stability.

Large Clips over Both Poles
Large Clips over Both Poles

Oddments

With respect to ventilation and water intrusion, the non-door sides of the fly have small tabs for staking out. This is a very common design feature that is often ignored in the field.

Fly Side Pull-Out
Fly Side Pull-Out

My approach over the years is to tie short loops of bungee cord to these tabs. This makes it easier to stake out the sides and keep them taut. Water is forced away from the floor/sidewall and ventilation is greatly improved!

Fly Side Staked-Out
Fly Side Staked-Out

Here is the tent fully deployed with four stakes on the ends and two on the sides. With the addition of the side stakes this becomes a very stable structure and is likely to perform well under windy conditions.

Fully Staked-Out - Note Vent Left of Door
Fully Staked-Out – Note Vent Left of Door

The hardware that comes with the tent is minimal: eight stakes, four 6ft lengths of cord, and an emergency pole repair sleeve. Many online commentators have pointed out that there are not enough stakes to fully secure the tent (no stakes for the pole tie-outs and sides). This is less critical than it seems. First it is rarely necessary to stake down every possible point. Second, it is often necessary to augment the generic stakes with sand-screws or other specialized substitutes (like tying to a rock or tree root).

Stake Bag Contents
Stake Bag Contents

New Hammock 2023

History

For the height of this sort of deliciousness is to have nothing but the blanket between you and your snugness and the cold of the outer air. – Herman Melville (Moby Dick)

I became aware of Hammock Camping back in 2016. Luckily my first hammock was reasonably well designed and built. Seven years later that hammock has taken me many places and taught me a lot! Unfortunately it is showing some wear and I’ve been looking for a possible replacement.

My Original Hammock
My Original Hammock

One of the things I learned is to keep things as simple as possible. That first hammock was unusual–having a short tent pole spreader at the shoulder (vertical orange bar in photo above). This eliminated the need for tying the hammock out when no rain threatened, and eliminated two extraneous lines to trip over! The rainfly was a standard 10×10 foot diamond with the ridge on the long axis. It also served as the de facto ridge-line when hanging the hammock up. Deploying it took only two stakes and I added some shock-cord to help keep it taut.

Four Point Suspension
Four Point Suspension

I call this the “four point suspension rule” and it works! Minimal trip hazard–most nights you just hang up and jump in. Even with the fly fully deployed it is easy to enter from any quadrant. I carry a few lengths of lightweight rope to solve minor problems as they come up.

I had to search hard to find a hammock with a single aluminum spreader pole similar to the above. Most “spreader” hammocks have non-removable, self-deploying wands at both ends. This makes them harder to pack up, since you have to fold them in a very precise way. I bought one of these a few years ago and found that it made a better bugnet tent on the ground. It works when hung, but not very well. The spreaders don’t spread, they just support the netting. Newer models appear to have wands closer to the ends and that arrangement might work better. (?)

Setting Up the New Hammock

Spreader and Netting

This “TravelBird” hammock looked promising and was not very expensive. The first thing you’ll notice is the spreader pole on the outside (my original had the pole inside the netting). When empty the whole thing tends to tip over in the wind. Not so much with gear in it. (The video instructions tell you to stake it out, but there really is no need to do this.)

New Hammock
New Hammock

Here’s a closeup of the spreader in action. You can also see the standard carabiner suspension and entry zipper. Note that these are not the supplied straps, which are two feet shorter and could not span the distance between my “hammock testing” trees.

Hammock Spreader
Hammock Spreader

Note that you can enter from either side, and the netting folds away into a pocket at the foot when you don’t want it. (Nice!) The dark netting is also better for stargazing at night.

Hammock Netting Folded
Hammock Netting Folded

When you lay down in the hammock the spreader bends and keeps quite a bit of tension under your shoulders. I’m still experimenting with proper pitch for the most comfortable effect. My only major complaint–at only 100 inches it’s too short. It should be 104-106 inches IMO. I’m 6 foot 2, so if it works for me it will probably work well for anyone who is shorter.

Inside Hammock Pano
Inside Hammock Pano

Rainfly

The rainfly is a custom shape and the spreader supports it just like a modern tent. The problem is the inadequate ridge-line tension using the weak elastic tabs on the ends. I re-engineered this with some shock-cords that tighten the fly and allow it to rise above the netting for better airflow.

Weak Fly Attachment
Weak Fly Attachment

I added a six inch shock-cord loop and hook.

Better Fly Attachment
Better Fly Attachment

As you can see there is more tension on the fly. And when the hammock is loaded the fly can better maintain both height and tension.

Fly Under Tension
Fly Under Tension

The fly can be tucked on both ends to keep out blowing rain. This works very well!

Fly Tucked Under
Fly Tucked Under

I’ve found that in many situations the foot can be left lightly tied or loose. The side pull-out tabs can be tied to each other as shown below (black tabs near the ground).

Loose Footed Fly
Loose Footed Fly

If more wind is anticipated you can stake out the fly as shown below. The hammock came with thin elastic cords that I replaced with heavier shock-cords and lightweight rope. (The knots are an adjustable Taut-Line Hitch and a Zeppelin Bend to connect cord to rope.)

Hammock Knots
Hammock Knots

The final result meets the four point rule outlined above, and keeps the head and sides clear of ropes!

Staked Out Fly
Staked Out Fly

If you want to hedge your bet you can reef the fly along the ridge-line. This also makes it easy to pack up when you’re breaking camp. Note that one of the reef points was not sealed properly and caused a minor leak. I will be adding some seam sealer to address this.

Fly Reefed at Ridge-Line
Fly Reefed at Ridge-Line

Note that this is the first hammock I’ve seen where you can access and deploy part of the rain-fly from the inside!

Fly Access from within the Hammock
Fly Access from within the Hammock

There are two pockets, one at the foot and one along the right side. As always, I wish there were more pockets and larger. A “loft” near the head would also be helpful.

Hammock Pockets
Hammock Pockets

Recommendations

  • PROS
  • a good hammock overall, at a great price (~$69)
  • single external pole design, fewer ropes!
  • enter from either side
  • netting folds out of the way
  • dark netting is good for stargazing
  • CONS
  • too short (needs 4-6 inches more IMO)
  • rainfly needs better suspension (easy to fix)
  • included hanging straps are adequate, but short
  • no ridge-line, so harder to hang (minor)
  • side-zipper bag included, a stuff sack would be better
  • no instructions, videos are not that helpful

Inflatable Kayak Review

Advanced Elements Expedition Elite Kayak

I’ve used a “traditional” inflatable kayak for several years, mostly in special situations such as houseboat camping or floating down rivers. They can be very practical and lots of fun in these settings. They are bouncy and sit high in the water, more like life-rafts than kayaks. The one thing they are not good for is a windy day on open water!

“Sea Eagle” Kayak on Lake Powell 2020

So I was intrigued when I read about newer designs that approximate the capabilities of hard-sided kayaks. Advanced Elements produces several models including the Expedition Elite reviewed here.

Expedition Elite Kayak

The boat is nominally 13 feet long and weighs in at around 42 pounds (not as heavy as it sounds when you consider the design). It is rated to carry up to 400 pounds. The materials, fit, and finish are all very good to excellent. I’ve had a chance to use this kayak in 20 mph winds on a large lake, and on a small river with minor rapids. It performed well in both situations.

There are several notable design features:
1) Short aluminum frames define the prow and stern.
2) The drop-stitched floor is very rigid (similar to a standup paddle-board).
3) Two concentric floatation chambers (rings) provide redundancy in case of damage/air loss.
4) Seven auxiliary inflatable compartments define the semi-rigid deck.
5) An outer envelope gives the boat shape and protects everything else.

There are a total of eleven separate inflatable elements when you include the seat and optional rear “thwart”. Only three of these provide primary floatation (the outer ring, inner ring, and floor). Inflation pressure is low (1-2psi) except the floor (4-5psi). All components noticeably lose some pressure after a day or two. It takes a bit of effort to keep everything topped off.

The entire kayak (potentially including the pump and paddle) folds up into a suitcase-sized duffle. I’ve had some difficulty folding and unfolding it smoothly. When folded there are six or more layers that must slide over each other without binding. Inflation leads to asymmetries that make me think I’ve done something out of order. There is an example in the photo below where you can see the right inner ring bulging towards the midline. I’m not sure if this is some subtle configuration problem or the boat is just built that way. These are minor aesthetic issues to that don’t appear to affect performance.

Other Details

I’m over six foot tall and this kayak is just barely big enough for me to get my legs in. The photo below shows the bow zipper opened to reveal the adjustable footrest and limited storage space beyond. (Also note the dimples of the drop-stitched floor.) The more substantial rear storage area has a clever hatch that rolls up like a dry bag.

Bow Zipper Open

The biggest deficiency/flaw so far has been the position of tie-downs for the paddle and gear. There are two velcro attachment points on each side for holding a paddle, however the forward points are too far away to be useful. I remedied this by tying a short length of shockcord between the existing d-rings. The other end of the paddle fits nicely into the rear velcro strap.

Improvised Paddle Rest

Another irritation was the seat falling out when I picked the kayak up to move it. There was no attachment behind the seat so I added one using an elastic toggle.

Toggle Threaded Thru Hole Behind Seat

I have a similar problem storing small gear. My other kayaks have easily accessed cubbies for gear and slots for water bottles. Again the attachment points on this boat are all too far forward. I’m thinking of adding d-rings to the black side panels to attach a deck bag.

Proposed Deck Bag Location

Bottom Line

Pros

  • Lightweight compared with plastic or fiberglass equivalents.
  • Subjectively 80% of the feel and performance of a hard-sided kayak.
  • Less vulnerable to waves than you’d think. (An optional skirt is available.)
  • Enough floatation to carry a significant amount of gear.
  • Very portable. Packs into a single duffle!

Cons

  • Leg area somewhat cramped for taller paddlers.
  • Gear attachment issues outlined above.
  • Need to top off inflation frequently.
  • Complicated, many parts that can move in or out of place.

Overall this is a very functional kayak, even compared with hard-sided models. The combination of partial frame and drop-stitched floor give it a solid feel on the water. Plus you can carry it in the trunk of your car and store it in the back of a closet!