Chaco Canyon 2023

Chaco Canyon Entrance
Chaco Canyon Entrance

After braving the nearly washed out road from the north I arrived around 9am. I had to “walk” my Prius diagonally over piles of gravel and exposed rock faces. This was my third attempt over twenty years to visit this important site. (The first two failed because the roads were completely washed out!) [Full Gallery]

The map below shows the basic layout of the park (click to enlarge). Most of the sites are easy walking distance from the main loop drive.

Chaco Canyon Map source:nps.gov
Chaco Canyon Map (source:nps.gov)

A short walk from the Vistors Center is the small un-excavated ruins of Una Vida. The prominent Fajada Butte is seen in the distance. This is the location of the famous “Sun Dagger” astronomical feature presumed to mark the summer solstice.

Una Vida Ruins and Fajada Butte
Una Vida Ruins and Fajada Butte

A short scramble above that are impressive Petroglyphs inscribed into the cliff face.

Look Up! Petroglyphs
Look Up! Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs Detail
Petroglyphs Detail

The focal point of the entire park is Pueblo Bonito, a huge stone edifice that contained over six hundred rooms and dozens of circular ceremonial structures called “Kivas”. (source:nps sign)

Pueblo Bonito Sign
Pueblo Bonito Sign

The walls nearest the cliff were crushed by a rock slide after the structure was abandoned. The rounded walls are the remains of various kivas.

Pueblo Bonito Panorama
Pueblo Bonito Panorama

One quadrant has been restored so visitors may explore a warren of small rooms. Notice the very low doors and what remains of wooden timbers holding up the floors above. The stone in the foreground was used to grind corn. The consensus is these rooms were not residential but related to the ritual use of the site.

Pueblo Bonito 360 Panorama
Pueblo Bonito 360 Panorama

The nearby ruins of Chetro Ketl features a Great Kiva 62 feet in diameter. Notice the two seated visitors for scale!

Chetro Ketl Great Kiva
Chetro Ketl Great Kiva

The remains of Chacoan Stairways can be seen in several places behind the ruins. These are no mere “Moki Steps” but wide grand staircases leading to cerimonial roads throughout the area.

Chacoan Stairway
Chacoan Stairway

Several flowering plants were abundant due to recent rainfall. This particularly showy example is Emory’s Globemallow.

Emory's Globemallow
Emory’s Globemallow

The Pueblo Alto Trail starts above the Kin Kletso ruins. I attempted this late in the day after finding out there were no more campsites available that night. The trail went straight up into a huge crack in the rock!

Cliff Rim Trail Above Kin Kletso Ruins
Cliff Rim Trail Above Kin Kletso Ruins

As I was ascending I noticed one boulder that was different then all the others. It had Fossils! Mostly cross-sections I thought. Here is what some online geologist friends speculated…

“Mostly cross-sections of fossil shells, mostly bivalves & I think a gastropod.”

“…the large white mass consists of opaque secondary calcite that precipitated in an empty shell post-deposition, in contrast to the others that filled with silt or lime mud shortly after death.”

Fossils
Fossils

I climbed about two hundred feet to the stone rim.

Cliff Rim Trail Panorama
Cliff Rim Trail Panorama

There were helpful signs along the way, including this one calling attention to several man-made basins pecked out of the rock where water would sometimes flow.

Water Collection Basins
Water Collection Basins

I finally got to the overlook where you could survey Pueblo Bonito in all its glory!

Pueblo Bonito from Above
Pueblo Bonito from Above

At that point I had to turn back and start my downward climb… (Alternate Video)

Note: The trail went through a huge crack in the rock face. I used a Theta S 360 Camera to capture my descent. At one point I was also fighting a 20+ mph headwind! It looks very steep at the end… IT WAS!

I ate dinner as the setting sun lit the virga falling from late afternoon clouds.

Chaco Canyon Sunset
Chaco Canyon Sunset

What I missed…

I did not have time for the seven mile hike to see the Supernova & Comet Pictographs near the Penasco Blanco ruins (picture shown here from Wiki Commons). The “starburst” figure may document the 1054 CE Crab Nebula Supernova.

Supernova & Comet Pictographs source:wikicommons
Supernova Pictograph (source:wiki_commons)

I left the park at dusk via the south entrance road. Fortunately this route was in better shape and the main hazards were multiple tall cattle grates that threatened to high center my car.

More Photos…

BWCA Canoe & Hiking Trip 2023

This year’s trip was a return to a familiar locale…

Duncan and Rose Lakes!

BWCA Route Map, Source USGS
BWCA Route Map, Source USGS (Click to Enlarge)
Video with Loons and Beavers

Complete Photo Gallery

Day 1 (Portage to Duncan Lake)

We started at Bearskin Lake and paddled across to the Duncan Lake Portage.

Starting Out
Starting Out

After exploring options on the north shore of Duncan we decided to stay on the campsite closest to the portage on the south shore (conveniently vacated by the prior group as we waited).

Duncan Lake Campsite
Duncan Lake Campsite

Overall this was a great site and not affected by blowdowns like the others we looked at. It had a nice fire area, lots of big trees, adequate tentsites, and a small pebble beach. (4/5 rating)

Hammock Housekeeping
Hammock Housekeeping

I’ve been a Hammock Camper for the past ten years. This was the first trip where I used an Underquilt and it performed very well. On the warmer nights (50s) I barely needed a sleeping bag. Going to bed felt like entering a warm bath!

After setting up camp, we had Happy Hour and veggie burgers for dinner!

Happy Hour
Happy Hour
Veggie Burgers
Veggie Burgers

The smoke haze from the Canadian Forest Fires gave us a very red sunset that night.

Smoky Sunset
Smoky Sunset

Day 2 (Canoe to Rose Lake)

The next morning we were treated to the largest gathering of Loons I’ve ever seen! We counted nine in all. It started with three or four calling and others flying in over about twenty minutes. Then they socialized and fished together for at least an hour. I called it the Loon equivalent of a breakfast club!

We read that at this time of year Loons are after fish called Cisco or lake herring. These are very oily and help the birds fatten up before they fly a thousand miles to the ocean for the winter.

Loons Gathering
Loons Gathering

We paddled down the long eastern arm of the lake to the famous “Staircase Portage” to Rose Lake.

Down the Staircase Portage
Down the Staircase Portage

We consolidated into one canoe to cruise around Rose. We saw where Ross and I camped during the The Boys 40th Birthday Trip back in 1996.

Group Photo on Rose
Group Photo on Rose

We stopped by Rose Falls to have lunch before heading up the stairs and back to Duncan.

Rose Falls
Rose Falls (Click to Enlarge)
Swimmers in Rose Falls
Swimmers in Rose Falls
Up the Staircase Portage
Up the Staircase Portage
Happy Hour Again
Happy Hour Again

Day 3 (Caribou Rock Trail, 4.3 Miles)

Group on the Trail
Group on the Trail

The next day we decided to hike on the nearby Caribou Rock Trail. This would ultimately take us to Rose Lake, but we did not go that far. Afterwards we read this is one of the “most difficult trails in Minnesota!”

Steep Climb
Steep Climb
Ross Above Duncan Lake
Ross Above Duncan Lake

That night we recovered with an elaborate taco meal prepared by Ross.

Taco Dinner
Taco Dinner

Day 4 (Rose Lake Cliffs, 6.5 Miles)

Our final full day was a mix of canoeing and hiking the Border Route Trail to the Cliffs over Rose Lake. It was difficult at times, but the view once we got there was worth it!

Rose, Rat, and South Lakes
Rose, Rat, and South Lakes

Way down on the lake we noticed two large white birds. These turned out to be a pair of [Trumpeter?] Swans! At the top I was able to take a photo through the binoculars with my phone.

Two Swans Thru Binoculars
Two Swans Thru Binoculars
Top of the World!
Top of the World!
Pileated Woodpecker Holes
Pileated Woodpecker Holes
Going for an Evening Swim!
Going for an Evening Swim!

Day 5 (Return to Civilization)

Leaving Paradise
Leaving Paradise

The next day was pretty simple. We broke camp early because the day was going to be hot (high 80s). When we later drove through Duluth the dash thermometer said it was 101!

Knots of Note

Bear Rope Hitch

Bear Rope Hitch
Bear Rope Hitch

We saw this one on a video about bear ropes. It is somewhat counter-intuitive as you get started and may require two people if the rope is heavily loaded. The first loop eliminates the need to “wrap the tree” with a long rope. The second vertical loop locks under the taught working end. As a slip knot it is extremely easy to untie so you can add one or two half-hitches for more security when needed.

Soft Shackle

Soft Shackle
Soft Shackle

These are referred to “Aussie Bowlines”. They are specifically used to secure a loaded line to a sail or other object. The cinch cords shown here already have stopper knots on their ends so it is easy to “shackle” them to the hammock strap.

Treehugger Hitch (or Tree-Hook Knot)

Treehugger Hitch
Treehugger Hitch

This is an idea I’ve been incubating for some time as a non-destructive “place anywhere” alternative to nails in trees or breaking branches to hang things on. Shown here is my first successful field test! It is tied using a short stick or similar object found locally.

  • Starting with the middle of the rope, wrap the tree at least twice and tie loosely with a reef (square) knot.
  • Catch the lower loop with the stick and add turns to partially tighten the loops.
  • Tie the upper end of the stick as tightly as possible in front of the reef knot.
  • Adjust everything to use the resulting hook to best advantage.
  • The excess rope will just hang down out of the way.

It performed well holding about ten pounds of equipment and it even let me hang up my hat! The main flaws with this implementation are the stretch in the second reef knot and the tendency for the loops to converge, allowing the hook to turn sideways. I plan to address these in the next version.

Once perfected this bit of knot-craft should help eliminate the need for nails in trees!

Old Nail in Tree
Old Nail in Tree

Everglades Kayak Trip 2023

map source: nps.gov (click to enlarge)

This year we returned to the northern part of the park. The original plan had been a “grand tour” loop with two beach sites and two chickees. However, the forecast was calling for high winds on the last two days where we would be exposed out on the Gulf of Mexico. On the drive down I called and amended our permit to camp at Lopez River on the last night. [Photo Gallery]

Day 1 (Rabbit Key)

We left a day after the new moon (the beginning of the lunar Year of the Rabbit) so the tide was especially low. We had to motor through the mud with our legs to get out to where there was enough water to float. We would later have to fight an incoming tide going through Sandfly Pass.

Sandfly Island & Pass

We did a bit of walking around the old homestead and saw what was left of the old cistern and artesian well. Also saw our first dolphin fishing along the shore there.

Carl At The Well

Soon afterward my drive failed (while fighting the current of course!). Specifically one of the “flippers” delaminated and pulled away from the steel rod that supports it. Thus started a series of field repairs (outlined below) as we continued to limp along out to Rabbit Key.

Rabbit Key at Sunset

The best campsites have moved around over the years as hurricanes have remodeled the island. Our usual site in front of the sand spit (left point above) was taken so we explored a site further down near the high tide line. The only problem was the central tree was broken and stunted so we were hanging pretty low with ground cloths under our butts. The breeze blew all night so there were no bugs.

Rabbit Key Campsite (click to enlarge)

The next day when the tide was out we took a walk around our little isle. Because of the recent new moon the Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) were about.

Ring of Horseshoe Crab Shells
One Tough Mangrove!

Field Repairs

I used duct tape for my first attempt to repair my drive. This lasted about an hour. The adhesive would not stand up to submersion in salt water. Next I tried a mummy wrap with paracord. This worked better, but the bottom knot kept falling off. On the second day I cut out strips of plastic water bottle and attached these with rope using scaffold knots. [Click for Example] This did the trick and I was able to complete the trip — peddling all the way!

Selected Video Clips

Day 2 (Crooked Creek Chickee)

We waited for the tide to turn and start rising before we left Rabbit Key. This lead to an easy passage through Rabbit Key Pass and up the Lopez River to Crooked Creek Chickee. We had a nice swim, started cooking dinner, and hung our hammocks before the wind died and it got buggy.

Crooked Creek Chickee

Day 3 (Sweetwater Chickee)

The next day was mostly spent crossing four large bays. We had a bit of a cross/tailwind but no real problems. When we got to the chickee however we had a bit of unwelcome attention from an eight foot alligator that was acting like it expected to be fed. Normally gators will be curious but generally do not hang around and get progressively closer!

Sweetwater Chickee with Gator

The evening was nice with a bit of breeze and only a few bugs. We had a comfortable night except for the heavy breathing! I woke upseveral times in the night and could hear wet, sonorous breathing a few feet away from the chickee. It was not a dolphin. Every ten minutes or so there would be 2-3 breaths in exactly the same place! I thought “Gee, is that gator stalking us?!” I looked several times with a flashlight and never saw a thing. If a gator was there on the surface I should have seen its eyes reflecting orange. Very strange! In the morning the breathing was occuring and the mystery was solved. A small manatee had come to sleep next to us overnight! Very cool!!

Well-Pitched Hammocks
Sweetwater Chickee

Day 4 (Lopez River)

Apparently the Park Service has a new rule that you can’t stay on the same chickee twice in one trip, so we camped at the Lopez River ground site on our last night. I had stopped there for lunch before but never stayed overnight. There was a party already on the primary site, so we took the secondary next to the large ruin of the cistern. Both sites have nice deep shell mound approaches, and we sat down by the water while we ate our dinner and finished our box of wine. There was a breeze and it was about ten degrees cooler so bugs were few.

Lopez River Campsite Shell Mound Landing

The site itself is small and set within mangroves, with a compacted mud surface and a picnic table. The hammocks were perfect in this setting!

Hanging in the Mangrove

Day 5 (Return to Civilization)

We got up before dawn the next day to beat the incoming tide. We circled around Chokoloskee Island rather than take the narrow canal behind the causeway. As predicted the wind rose and was probably every bit of 12-15 mph with gusts. We were glad not to be out on the Gulf!

Chokoloskee Island

Even after all these years this was the first time I’d gone this way, giving us a chance to see the Smallwood Store from the water. This is where, in 1910 the alleged murderer Edgar J. Watson (see “The Watson Place” campsite within the Park) met his end at the hands of a local posse who had gathered to arrest him. The excellent historical novel “Killing Mister Watson” is based on these events.

Smallwood Store

We peddled across the lagoon and back to the ranger station without difficulty. And thus ended an eventful but enjoyable trip!

Home Again!

More Photos…