Everglades Pedal Kayak Trip 2014

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After exploring the southern park the week before, I took a second trip in the north part with two of my cousins, Ann and Paige. [gallery] We had two pedal kayaks and a rented sit-inside model.

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Our first day was literally “a breeze” with a warm sun and cool tailwind. We stopped to explore Sandfly Island and took the mile long loop trail. There were many interesting plants a long the way, both native and introduced. Apparently the former residents had an acre of tomatoes and other crops growing there! The freshwater spring was still running as it was the last time I visited. From there we proceeded out to Jewel Key and our first campsite…

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We had a pleasant evening that ended with a small campfire on the beach. Little did we know the challenges we would face on the morrow!

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We awoke to the tent flapping in a very strong wind from the northeast. We organized ourselves on leeward side of the island an prepared to cross the large stretch of open water between Jewell and Rabbit Key. Once we were away from the wind shadow it quickly became clear that the non-pedal kayak was a liability. It sat much higher in the water and was therefor much more surface to catch the crosswind. I estimated the wind to be near twenty mph. The waves were a good two feet high and periodically we’d get a group that were three feet or more. The wind also played a trick on us, becoming more and more perpendicular as we progressed (influenced by the surrounding islands). It became clear that we might be blown right past our target. On a hunch I decided to try and tow the floundering kayak. I grabbed the bow painter and dogged it on the small cleat near my thigh. To our surprise, it worked remarkably well! After about forty minutes we were all out of harms way.

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Declaring my second weather emergency in less than a week, we decided not to press on, instead camping under the mangroves on northern end of Rabbit Key. The tide was out so we took a walking tour around the island as I have done in the past. The only disappointment was the lack of shorebirds, most of which were presumably roosting somewhere out of the wind. As we rested that afternoon I got a chance to start the book I had brought along The Control of Nature by John Mcphee. At dusk I spotted a flock of 15-20 Frigate Birds. (I’d only seen one or two at a time in the past.) The next day we headed inland and up the Lopez River where we stopped for lunch. At one point we had three or four Osprey Nests in view and while we were taking pictures the suddenly got very upset.

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But it wasn’t us—after a few seconds a Bald Eagle appeared and flew over at treetop level. No wonder they were upset! It was the first time I’d seen an Eagle in the Park!!

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We got to the Crooked Creek Chickee by about 3pm and Paige decided to take swim. It was getting warmer and as the breeze died that evening we had mosquitos for the first time in a week. The next morning was warm and wet and we hit the trail early to make time for a trip through the mangrove tunnels of Halfway Creek. There were many white birds roosting near the entrance and a lone Roseate Spoonbill! The upper creek is reliable place to see Alligators and there were two big ones sunning themselves along the bank as we passed by. After a trail lunch we made quick work of the creek and pulled into the Ranger Station about 2pm.

Everglades (Sail) Kayak Trip 2013

Just back from the Everglades with highlights too numerous to relate them all here. For a start I think we’ve hit on the perfect mode of transportation—pedal kayaks with sails! The only downside compared with a canoe is getting on/off the chickees. In every other respect they were superior to canoes and even other types of kayaks. We especially noticed how wind and waves were much less of the threat, and wind could often be put to good use! Unlike the sail canoe rig I’ve used in the past, the kayaks are much safer if they capsize.

Our route was aggressive and included a passage through Gopher Key, which is only possible at high tide. As you can see, we made extensive use of the sails with a prevailing winds from the north and northeast.

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I also tried a waterproof camera for the first time with good results, especially video! I’ve edited the clips together into a seven minute long high res feature. Be sure to click on the ‘full screen’ button if available!

Everglades Kayak Trip 2013
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It was a joy to be able to keep a camera close at hand and not worry about getting it wet. I also got a few good bird and HDR shots with my other cameras [full gallery], but my photography time was limited because we were having too much fun just exploring! Here are a few highlights…

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First day we stayed at the new Crooked Creek Chickee near the head of the Lopez River. In spite of being just off the main channel the site has a secluded feel. It replaces the now defunct chickee on Sunday Bay (which we will miss!). The new chickee is nice with a few new features: high flat roofs, robust ladders, and elevated kitchen shelves.

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The next day we sailed for the first time on the large bays along the way to the Plate Creek Chickee. We were excited to return to this historical location that existed before there was a national park. Alas, the original chickee has been razed and replaced by a new one set away from the small island. Another old place we will miss.

We sailed almost the entire next day. It was phenomenal!! Check out the video above to share some of the thrill. Unfortunately, in the heat of the moment getting the sails up, I lost track of my paddle. <frown> It was on a leash trailing behind as the boat took off and the leash failed due to our excessive speed. Ironically this occurred on the upper Lostmans River. Out in the Gulf of Mexico we sailed about a mile off-shore and reached New Turkey Key with plenty of time to explore and take pictures. Along the way I cut a black mangrove pole to replace my paddle. It worked remarkably well!

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The next day we waited for the tide to start rising before heading up Charley Creek to reach Gopher Key. This is a magical place with birds everywhere! My conservative estimate is we saw over four hundred White Pelicans soaring, landing and fishing. No Avocets this time, but there were hundreds of small shore birds feeding and about a dozen Roseate Spoonbills. At one point we witnessed an (unsuccessful) attack from a Peregrine Falcon. It only lasted 20-30 seconds, but the ensuing pandemonium was a sight to behold! The falcon flew right over our heads as he left the scene with empty talons.

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We had an uneventful exit via Gopher Key Creek and pedaled up to the Sweetwater Chickee. We got out early the next day and caught the end of the outgoing tide to get quickly down to The Watson Place. While there we took the now canonical photo by the sugarcane caldron. We made our way down the lower Chatham River and out to the Gulf. We rested at the river mouth and watched a pair of Dolphins feeding on the incoming tide. On the way we saw or heard several Manatees coming up to breathe.

We got to sail some more on our way to Rabbit Key and our last night on the beach. Along the way we saw more White Pelicans and at least three Sea Turtles. I’m convinced that pedaling and sailing are much better than paddling for seeing wildlife. Waving your arms in the air is probably a bit more threatening. We again arrived with plenty of time to explore and had a small beach fire to keep the bugs away in the evening.

The next day we pedaled our way to Sandfly Pass and back to the Ranger Station. All and all this was an exceptional trip and I am completely enamored with the multi-power Kayaks! We found that we could avoid damaging the drive fins by judicious choice of route. Wind and waves were much less of a problem and even became our ally when we put up the sails!

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Everglades (Sail) Canoe Trip 2011

Source: nps.gov

Another great trip this year with a new wrinkle… a Sail! We did a three day loop starting with Picnic Key, then Rabbit Key and up the Lopez River to Sunday Bay. [photo gallery] On the last day we explored the mangrove tunnels of Half-Way Creek as an alternative to the slog along the Chokoloskee causeway. This turned out to be an excellent choice!

After pulling our permit we got breakfast and waited for the tide to rise so we could give the new sailing rig a dry run.

I bought a sail kit that clamps on to my canoe. I’d been experimenting with the configuration to allow the bowman to stay in his seat. This turned out to work well. The boom was just tall enough to clear our heads. I also repositioned the downhaul to clear the space in front of the mast. The wind was cold, gusty, 12-18mph out of the north, but the boat handled well in spite of this. (The tide never did rise in Chokoloskee Bay that day, the wind was strong enough to keep it out!)

The next day we waited until about 11am to depart, in theory to wait for the high tide that never came. Our first leg took us northwest through a series of bays until we found the unmarked West Pass. The wind was on our aft quarter and the sailing was amazing! [video]

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The tide and wind cooperated so we were able to sail through the narrow pass and out to the Gulf. We arced around Tiger Key and landed on Picnic Key without paddling a stroke all day!

The ranger had suggested we choose Picnic Key for our first campsite. While Tiger Key is technically the more isolated beach site, it looks north at the lights of Marco Island (ugh!). We were happy to be on Picnic. The long beach gave us plenty of isolation and there was a lot to see and do.


We hiked along a narrows between Picnic and Tiger to a beautiful alternate camp site with white sand and deep water. It would have been a great place to swim if the air were warmer. Saw lots of tide pool life including a starfish and a hermit crab [video].

The next day we were ready to set off again, with the wind turning easterly. Along the way we fell in with a large pod of dolphins. Because of the sail we were able to stay with them for several minutes. It was delightful! We made good progress for another hour and took a side trip to see a flock of white pelicans, but then the wind began to fail. It was in an odd situation with lots of waves to push us around, but not enough wind to make progress upwind. There might have also been a current working against us. So we invented paddle-sailing! We paddled the last mile with the sail up and it seemed help us along, even though we were technically pointing too high into the wind.

We arrived at Rabbit Key and had lunch. Then we set out to explore the island and there was a lot to see! The tide was out exposing little bays, each with its own beach and mud flats.

We came across a cluster of agave-like plants with sword-shaped leaves. And large black caterpillars with yellow stripes. Birds were in abundance including ruddy turnstones, peeps, and a flock of oystercatchers. Just at dusk we saw two Outward Bound six-person war canoes pass by, presumably to bivouac somewhere in the islands.

The next morning we collapsed the sailing gear and started our first paddle-only day. The wind had calmed and we rode the tide through Rabbit Key Pass and up the Lopez River. We had lunch at the Lopez River Campsite, which appeared to be recently cleared and renovated. On the front of the old cistern/foundation we found the name “Lopes” (with an “s”) and “1892” scrawled into the cement. Not sure if it could actually be that old? We got to the Sunday Bay Chickee in the early afternoon. Shortly after we arrived a solitary pelican landed, obviously looking for a handout. This is the first time in eleven years that I’ve seen such behavior. No doubt it is being fed (frown). There is a similar problem with alligators at Sweetwater.

After some reading and a nap, we paddled around the corner to see if the flock of Blue-Winged Teal (2) I’d seen in the past might be there, and they were! We had a great evening, with a bug-repelling breeze until sunset. The next day dawned grey, promising rain to come.

The two obvious routes back to civilization are Lopez and Turner Rivers. Either way there are miles of very boring, and possibly dangerous, paddling along the Chokoloskee Causeway to get back to the ranger station and our car. By a fluke of inspiration, I realized there was a potential third route via a cut-off to Half-Way Creek. We were in a mangrove tunnel for most of the way.

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Larger boats enter the cut-off from either end, but the middle is quite narrow and could easily be blocked by fallen trees. But it wasn’t blocked and proved to be a great way for us to get back! Just as we began to see houses and docks it started to rain in ernest, so we had a soggy landing.

So ended our excellent outing for 2011!